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Stanley Headwall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Day After les Vacances de Monsieur Hulot, The T 
French Reality T 
General Malaise T 
Man Yoga T,S 
Nemesis 
Nightmare on Wolf Street T 
Rhamnusia T 
Suffer Machine 

Stanley Headwall Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 51.19831, -116.04256 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,617
Administrators: Tom Gnyra, Dave Rone, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Dave Rone on Oct 17, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: The Stanley Headwall, from the trailhead. The pro...

Description 

Home to a number of the Rockies' best-known ice and mixed routes, the Stanley Headwall is a truly spectacular venue. Joe Josephson's guide says it best: "Every major route on the wall is sustained, technically difficult, and contains sections of serious climbing."

Use the the following link to check out a really cool overview of the Headwall!
latitudephotography.com/shp/in...

Getting There 

Although the Stanley Headwall is actually in B.C., most people access it from the Banff National Park. So I'll list it as such. Drive 20 miles north from Banff on Hwy 1 to Castle Junction. Take a left on Hwy 93 for a little over 8 miles to the Stanley Glacier trailhead, which is on the south side of the road. Follow the well-marked and heavily traveled switchbacked trail until it eventually emerges from the trees into the valley above. The Headwall will be looming above you to the right.

Allow 1.5 - 2 hours, depending on snow, how fit you are, and whether or not you are using skis or snowshoes.

Climbing Season

For the Banff National Park area.

Weather station 8.2 miles from here

8 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Stanley Headwall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Stanley Headwall:
Nemesis   WI6     Ice, Alpine, 4 pitches, 525'   
Man Yoga   WI5 M8     Trad, Sport, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 5 pitches, 800'   
French Reality   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WI6     Trad, Ice, Alpine, 4 pitches, 500'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Stanley Headwall

Featured Route For Stanley Headwall
Rock Climbing Photo: Suffer Machine

Suffer Machine WI5+ M7-8  North America : Canada : ... : Stanley Headwall
Suffer Machine is an excellent Stanley Headwall route! The mixed climbing is on high quality rock and is followed up by steep, sustained ice.The crux is the roof on the first pitch. Start at the base of a blocky column of rock below and to the right of the hanging dagger. Climb about 15m to a stance below the roof, where you can clip two bolts, and get a decent rest. Step out and get good tool placements above the roof and clip the first bolt. It's strenuous, because your feet are way under...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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