Stanley Headwall Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: The Stanley Headwall, from the trailhead. The pro...
Home to a number of the Rockies' best-known ice and mixed routes, the Stanley Headwall is a truly spectacular venue. Joe Josephson's guide says it best: "Every major route on the wall is sustained, technically difficult, and contains sections of serious climbing."
Use the the following link to check out a really cool overview of the Headwall! latitudephotography.com/shp/in...
Although the Stanley Headwall is actually in B.C., most people access it from the Banff National Park. So I'll list it as such. Drive 20 miles north from Banff on Hwy 1 to Castle Junction. Take a left on Hwy 93 for a little over 8 miles to the Stanley Glacier trailhead, which is on the south side of the road. Follow the well-marked and heavily traveled switchbacked trail until it eventually emerges from the trees into the valley above. The Headwall will be looming above you to the right.
Allow 1.5 - 2 hours, depending on snow, how fit you are, and whether or not you are using skis or snowshoes.
Climbing Season For the Banff National Park area.
Weather station 8.2 miles from here
8 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Stanley Headwall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Stanley Headwall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Stanley Headwall:
WI6 Ice, Alpine, 4 pitches, 525'
WI5 M8 Trad, Sport, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 5 pitches, 800'
French Reality 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
WI6 Trad, Ice, Alpine, 4 pitches, 500'
Featured Route For Stanley Headwall
The Day After les Vacances de Monsieur Hulot
WI6 M8 PG13 North America
: ... : Stanley Headwall
This route is the real deal when it comes to difficult mixed on the Headwall, it never lets up. Hard dry tooling on gear, and ice that ranges from veneer, to eggshell, to stacked fins, to good water ice. P1) climbs through the rock band leading up to the big snow ledge. Significant avi hazard on the approach slope to this pitch!P2) 30 m, M7- Starts 10 m around the corner to the left of Nightmare on Wolf Street. This is the starting point for most parties who climb the route. Climb a shallow, ...[more] Browse More Classics in International