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Fiasco
WI5+ M8
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
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Suffer Machine WI5+ M7+ |
| Type: | Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 550 ft (167 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Sean Isaac and Dave Thomson, Feb 98 |
| Page Views: | 34 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Sean McLane on Dec 30, 2024 |
| Admins: | Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose, Rhys Beaudry |
Description
20 meters left of Suffer Machine is an independent line with a bolted mixed start. You can climb directly up to the base (two-bolt belay) on thin ice with some mandatory rock moves or come in from the right with some bolts to protect the rock.
P1) Start at a bolted anchor at the base of the pedestal. Climb up to the roof and traverse left following bolts (9 total). You can join the ice around bolt 8 or continue up a shallow corner to where it rolls over onto ice. 15m of thin ice to the anchor on the left. M8 WI4-5 (FA graded M8-) 35m
P2) Continue up the ribbon of ice to the same bolted anchor as Suffer Machine or belay on ice in the gully. WI4-5 50-65m
P3-4) Work back left, then up whatever looks good to the top. WI5+ 70m
Rappel on threads until you meet the bolted anchors
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