Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 650 ft, 4 pitches, Grade V|
|FA:||Jason Billings, Rob Owens 2001|
|Page Views:||2,597 total · 29/month|
|Shared By:||Dave Rone on Feb 21, 2013|
|Admins:||Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra|
The crux is the roof on the first pitch. Start at the base of a blocky column of rock below to the right of the hanging dagger. Climb about 15m to a stance below the roof, where you can clip two bolts, and get a decent rest. Step out and get good tool placements above the roof and clip the first bolt. It's strenuous, because your feet are way under the roof at this point. Getting past the overhang is the hardest sequence of moves, but it eases a lot once you've pulled the roof. There are two bolts with hangers missing that were used to aid the roof, (have wired stoppers ready if you want) but they are difficult clips, and not much benefit.
Traverse straight left past 3 or 4 bolts to a trough that leads up and slightly right, to the base of a steep slab of rock. (A bolt at the base of the trough may be snow/ice covered)
Climb the slab up and left past 5 bolts using torques, slots, and edges (really fun climbing) until you can work your way around the corner and up to the bolted belay station. Going around the corner will be easier if the rock is iced up.
Climb a long pitch of sustained ice up and left to the higher of two comfortable belay platforms. Follow this up with another pitch of long, sustained ice. A final short pitch of easy ice leads to the top of the route.