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General Malaise
WI5 M6
Type: | Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade IV |
FA: | Jim Gudjonson, Sean Isaac, Brian Webster |
Page Views: | 2,225 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | Dave Rone on Nov 27, 2013 |
Admins: | Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose, Rhys Beaudry |
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Description
P1: M3, 20m. Climb a gully through a couple rock steps, then up a snow covered ledge to a bolted belay station on the left.
P2: M6, 40m. Move right from the belay, and use good edges until you can stem up and get the first bolt (long runner recommended to reduce rope drag). Continue up to another bolt to where the crack trends right and the angle eases off. Climb the crack (gear, 2 bolts) to the ice ramp. If it's there, climb it about 10m to the belay/rap station. If it's not there, climb through a bulge in the crack (M6+) and on to the anchor.
P3: WI5, 30m. If there's ice, climb it to a cave. If no ice, rap off.
P2: M6, 40m. Move right from the belay, and use good edges until you can stem up and get the first bolt (long runner recommended to reduce rope drag). Continue up to another bolt to where the crack trends right and the angle eases off. Climb the crack (gear, 2 bolts) to the ice ramp. If it's there, climb it about 10m to the belay/rap station. If it's not there, climb through a bulge in the crack (M6+) and on to the anchor.
P3: WI5, 30m. If there's ice, climb it to a cave. If no ice, rap off.
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