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Routes in Stanley Headwall

Day After les Vacances de Monsieur Hulot, The T WI6 M7 PG13
French Reality T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WI6
General Malaise T WI5 M6
Man Yoga T,S WI5 M8
Nemesis WI6
Nightmare on Wolf Street T WI6+ M7+
Rhamnusia T WI6 M8
Suffer Machine WI5+ M7
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Jim Gudjonson, Sean Isaac, Brian Webster
Page Views: 495 total · 10/month
Shared By: Dave Rone on Nov 27, 2013
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

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Description

P1: M3, 20m. Climb a gully through a couple rock steps, then up a snow covered ledge to a bolted belay station on the left.

P2: M6, 40m. Move right from the belay, and use good edges until you can stem up and get the first bolt (long runner recommended to reduce rope drag). Continue up to another bolt to where the crack trends right and the angle eases off. Climb the crack (gear, 2 bolts) to the ice ramp. If it's there, climb it about 10m to the belay/rap station. If it's not there, climb through a bulge in the crack (M6+) and on to the anchor.

P3: WI5, 30m. If there's ice, climb it to a cave. If no ice, rap off.

Location

Start about 30m left of Suffer Machine. The start gully is obvious.

Protection

Stoppers 2-8, a set of C3's, And C4's to #3, doubles on #2 & 3 will be nice, but not crucial. 4 bolts.

Bolted stations after P1 & 2, v-thread the ice.

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