Type: Ice, Alpine, 525 ft, 4 pitches, Grade V
FA: FFA: James Blench, John Lauchlan, Albi Sole
Page Views: 3,805 total · 36/month
Shared By: Dave Rone on Oct 17, 2010
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

Undoubtedly the best-known and most popular of the Stanley Headwall routes, Nemesis satisfies! Climb variable and sometimes rotten grade 4 ice to a big ledge about half-way up. The second pitch is harder and involves sections of steep, sustained climbing, usually on good ice. With 70m ropes, the route can be done in two pitches and 2 rappels.

Beware of avalanch hazard on the approach slope leading to the climb, and from huge, invisible slopes above the route.

Location

Nemesis is the furthest route up-valley on the headwall, and can't be missed. It is about 200 m past Suffer Machine, an obvious route that likely won't quite be reaching the ground.

Rappel the route, or from a v-thread on the left side (climber's left) of the top of the route, rappel to anchors (bolts) on the far left side of the ledge. From here, one more rappel (60m) will get you to the ground.

Protection

A good selection of medium and long screws for protection and belay anchors, and some cord for v-threads. Be prepared to make a rappel anchor at the top.

Photos

Nick M
Driggs, ID
Nick M   Driggs, ID
Wicked cool ice route. 70m from ground to bolted anchor in midway ledge/alcove. Thanks to whoever installed that. Went for it with 60m rope and came up short with a shitty belay spot. Alcove belay to top was 60m. Avy slope above is the real deal. Climbed it 3/27/19, after unseasonably warm temps destroyed many popular icicles in region. However,
Nemesis was essentially perfect. Apr 1, 2019