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> Stanley Headwall
Nemesis
WI6
Avg: 4 from 25
votes
Routes in Stanley Headwall
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Dawn of the Dead T WI6 M8+ |
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Day After les Vacances de Monsieur Hulot, The T WI6 M7 PG13 |
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Fiasco T WI5+ M8 |
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French Reality T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WI6 M7- |
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General Malaise T WI5 M6 |
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Man Yoga T,S WI5 M8 |
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Nemesis WI6 |
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Nightmare on Wolf Street T WI6+ M7+ |
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Rhamnusia T WI6 M8 |
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Suffer Machine WI5+ M7+ |
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| Type: | Ice, Alpine, 525 ft (159 m), 4 pitches, Grade V |
| FA: | FFA: James Blench, John Lauchlan, Albi Sole |
| Page Views: | 8,558 total · 48/month |
| Shared By: | Dave Rone on Oct 17, 2010 |
| Admins: | Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose, Rhys Beaudry |
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Description
Undoubtedly the best-known and most popular of the Stanley Headwall routes, Nemesis satisfies! Climb variable and sometimes rotten grade 4 ice to a big ledge about half-way up. The second pitch is harder and involves sections of steep, sustained climbing, usually on good ice. With 70m ropes, the route can be done in two pitches and 2 rappels.
Beware of avalanch hazard on the approach slope leading to the climb, and from huge, invisible slopes above the route.
Beware of avalanch hazard on the approach slope leading to the climb, and from huge, invisible slopes above the route.
Location
Nemesis is the furthest route up-valley on the headwall, and can't be missed. It is about 200 m past Suffer Machine, an obvious route that likely won't quite be reaching the ground.
Rappel the route, or from a v-thread on the left side (climber's left) of the top of the route, rappel to anchors (bolts) on the far left side of the ledge. From here, one more rappel (60m) will get you to the ground.
Rappel the route, or from a v-thread on the left side (climber's left) of the top of the route, rappel to anchors (bolts) on the far left side of the ledge. From here, one more rappel (60m) will get you to the ground.
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