Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.


WI6, Ice, Alpine, 525 ft, 4 pitches, Grade V,  Avg: 4 from 10 votes
FA: FFA: James Blench, John Lauchlan, Albi Sole
International > N America > Canada > Alberta > Banff NP > Stanley Headwall


Undoubtedly the best-known and most popular of the Stanley Headwall routes, Nemesis satisfies! Climb variable and sometimes rotten grade 4 ice to a big ledge about half-way up. The second pitch is harder and involves sections of steep, sustained climbing, usually on good ice. With 70m ropes, the route can be done in two pitches and 2 rappels.

Beware of avalanch hazard on the approach slope leading to the climb, and from huge, invisible slopes above the route.


Nemesis is the furthest route up-valley on the headwall, and can't be missed. It is about 200 m past Suffer Machine, an obvious route that likely won't quite be reaching the ground.

Rappel the route, or from a v-thread on the left side (climber's left) of the top of the route, rappel to anchors (bolts) on the far left side of the ledge. From here, one more rappel (60m) will get you to the ground.


A good selection of medium and long screws for protection and belay anchors, and some cord for v-threads. Be prepared to make a rappel anchor at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Wes Bender on pitch 2.
[Hide Photo] Wes Bender on pitch 2.
Looking up, from the base of Nemesis
[Hide Photo] Looking up, from the base of Nemesis
2nd rappel.
[Hide Photo] 2nd rappel.
3rd pitch.
[Hide Photo] 3rd pitch.
Starting up Nemesis at first light.
[Hide Photo] Starting up Nemesis at first light.
[Hide Photo] Nemesis

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nick M
Driggs, ID
[Hide Comment] Wicked cool ice route. 70m from ground to bolted anchor in midway ledge/alcove. Thanks to whoever installed that. Went for it with 60m rope and came up short with a shitty belay spot. Alcove belay to top was 60m. Avy slope above is the real deal. Climbed it 3/27/19, after unseasonably warm temps destroyed many popular icicles in region. However,
Nemesis was essentially perfect. Apr 1, 2019