Ice, Alpine, 525 ft, 4 pitches, Grade V,
Avg: 4 from 10
FA: FFA: James Blench, John Lauchlan, Albi Sole
> N America
> Banff NP
> Stanley Headwall
Undoubtedly the best-known and most popular of the Stanley Headwall routes, Nemesis satisfies! Climb variable and sometimes rotten grade 4 ice to a big ledge about half-way up. The second pitch is harder and involves sections of steep, sustained climbing, usually on good ice. With 70m ropes, the route can be done in two pitches and 2 rappels.
Beware of avalanch hazard on the approach slope leading to the climb, and from huge, invisible slopes above the route.
Nemesis is the furthest route up-valley on the headwall, and can't be missed. It is about 200 m past Suffer Machine, an obvious route that likely won't quite be reaching the ground.
Rappel the route, or from a v-thread on the left side (climber's left) of the top of the route, rappel to anchors (bolts) on the far left side of the ledge. From here, one more rappel (60m) will get you to the ground.
A good selection of medium and long screws for protection and belay anchors, and some cord for v-threads. Be prepared to make a rappel anchor at the top.
Wes Bender on pitch 2.
Looking up, from the base of Nemesis
Starting up Nemesis at first light.