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Routes in Stanley Headwall

Day After les Vacances de Monsieur Hulot, The T WI6 M7 PG13
French Reality T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WI6
General Malaise T WI5 M6
Man Yoga T,S WI5 M8
Nemesis WI6
Nightmare on Wolf Street T WI6+ M7+
Rhamnusia T WI6 M8
Suffer Machine WI5+ M7
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Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Sean Isaac, Shawn Huisman
Page Views: 282 total · 7/month
Shared By: Dave Rone on Mar 26, 2015
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

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The amount of high quality climbing on this route would normally warrant a three-star rating, but the chossy nature of the first 15m of the M8 pitch bring it down to a two-star overall. It's been getting more traffic, however, so hopefully it will get cleaned up.

P1, M7: A great gear protected mixed pitch! A little loose stuff at the start but overall quality is very good. Climb a short gully to the base of a steep left facing corner. Move left under an overhang and pull through a bulge (poor feet). Continue up ice to a bolted belay. The harder variation of this pitch goes straight up the corner.

P2. WI5-: Climb thin rock and ice off the belay past a couple bolts to some good cam placements, then steep ice to the snow ledge and the bolted belay. Some 10 and 13cm screws will be useful.

P3, WI3: Up the snow ledge to an interesting tunnel that takes you up to the half-way ledge and a two bolt anchor to the left.

P4, M8: Carefully move to the back of the alcove to the first bolt. Then carefully choose your holds as you follow the bolts up and left. Poor quality rock for the first 5 or 6 bolts, then it improves as you near the ice. Transition to ice and then to a bolted belay.

P5, WI6: climb steep ice to the top.


The route is located about 30m left of Nemesis.


Standard mixed rack; set of stoppers, cams from BD .1 to 3, and 10 to 12 screws.



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