Type: Trad, Sport, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 800 ft, 5 pitches, Grade V
FA: Jonny Simms, Jon Walsh
Page Views: 1,839 total · 27/month
Shared By: Dave Rone on Dec 2, 2013 with improvements by Maarten van Haeren
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

You & This Route

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Another classic line on The Headwall, get on it! And you really should check out the video Josh Lavigne made of Simms, Walsh, and Man Yoga. vimeo.com/33005769

P0: Depending on conditions, this short pitch can be soloed or belayed. Climb an easy gully and then move left across a steep snow ledge to the belay. Be careful if the snow on the ledge is deep, this could slide.

P1, M7: Climb a rock step to a ledge, and then into the business of the first pitch. Climb right of the ice veneer up the steep wall, with great slots and torques, to a break in the roof. Work your way up and left (crux) into a slot where it eases off. Continue up to and through a bulge at the top of the slot to a snow-covered ramp and the belay. This pitch takes excellent gear from small C3's to #3 C4.

P2, M7: Step left from the belay and then up to the first of many bolts. Continue up to the obvious crack left of a small roof. Plug a red C4 in the crack and begin traversing below the roof, placing gear and clipping bolts as you go. Once past the roof, step down and then right to tiny edges, which lead right and up (crux) to the belay. This pitch is mostly bolts but also takes some small gear. Be sure to use long runners wisely in order to minimize rope drag.

P3, M5: A short pitch that climbs up and right to the belay. All gear.

P4, M8: Move up from the belay to a fixed pin, and then begin traversing to the right, past many bolts until you are under the break in the roof. Climb up and left on excellent holds to pull the roof (crux) clipping bolts and a fixed pin. Continue up on rock/ice to the belay. Again, use long runners to minimize rope drag.

P5, WI5: Continue up thin ice/rock to the main ice flow, and then on to the cave where the ice originates. Rock gear and screws protect this pitch.


Start is on the left edge of a huge arch feature near the center of the face


(from the FA party)
Bolts, and the following (BD Camelots):
Singles: #0 C3 (green); #2 C4 (gold); #3 (blue) #4 C4(grey)
Doubles: #1 C3 (reds); #.3 C4 (blue); #.4 C4 (grey); #.5 C4(purple); #.75 C4(green); #1 C4(red)
1 half set of nuts
Pitons are optional, but the route is set up for climbing without hammers, and there are several fixed in key places.
Draws: 16 draws -- 10 extendable and 6 quick draws, one or two extra double length runners
Screws: 7 - 10 including stubbies. The number depends on your comfort level leading steep ice after a relatively full day of climbing. The ice gradually gets fatter the higher you get.