French Reality

French Reality is the right-most icefall on the Headwall.

Hike/ski up the switchbacks, and when they end, trend up and right to the shoulder at the far right side of the Headwall, aiming for the broad ledge that traverses across the face.  This ledge is subject to extreme avalanche hazard and is used to access routes from French Reality all the way to Monsieur Hulot.  There are a series of bolts along the ledge that can be used as running belays, but they may be difficult to find.

P1: Scratch your way up this short pitch to a belay (fixed pins) below a steep, narrow slot.

P2: This pitch varies considerably, depending on the degree to which it is iced up.  Mostly dry it will be M6 to M7-, with lots of ice it goes easier and quicker.  Either way it takes good pro. Climb to the mushroom splatter at the top of the slot, and belay from screws (and maybe a bolt) where comfortable. 

P3:  A short pitch up the mushroomed ice to a bolted station below the final ice pitch. (Note; the route can be done in three pitches by stretching out P2).

P4:  A rope-length of spectacular WI6 vertical to overhanging ice to the cave from which the route emanates.  Belay from v-threads.

Screws, small - medium stoppers, cams from .1 Z4 to #3 C3, draws, runners, v-thread cord.

Rappel  the route.