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Routes in Stanley Headwall

Day After les Vacances de Monsieur Hulot, The T WI6 M7 PG13
French Reality T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WI6
General Malaise T WI5 M6
Man Yoga T,S WI5 M8
Nemesis WI6
Nightmare on Wolf Street T WI6+ M7+
Rhamnusia T WI6 M8
Suffer Machine WI5+ M7
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Type: Trad, Ice, Alpine, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Claude Blazy, Francois Damilano, Phillippe Pirabot Mar 92
Page Views: 2,256 total · 24/month
Shared By: jay mathers on Dec 20, 2010
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

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jay mathers
durango, CO
  5.8 WI6
jay mathers   durango, CO
  5.8 WI6
extra beta would be nice for this route, its a bit fuzzy since 2005. Thanks Dec 21, 2010
Rob Griz
  5.8 WI6 PG13
Rob Griz   Frisco
  5.8 WI6 PG13
We climbed it in late Feb 2010 and it went at M7 WI6+R. I think we hit it kinda late but managed to work our way up this excellent line. The ice was beginning to rot out and delam until the final fatty stretch to the cave. We took a standard trad rack to 3" and a few pins and basically ran out sections that did not afford protection. We did it in 3 full pitches. I recall a few fixed pins in the upper section of the mini chimney before the nasty-fun WI6+ pitch. As for most routes here, you gotta truck in and glass them to see if it's a line for you. Feb 12, 2012
jay mathers
durango, CO
  5.8 WI6
jay mathers   durango, CO
  5.8 WI6
Thanks Rob....I thought it was a really fun and challenging route, my partner and I had similar conditions, especially the pitch after the chimney which was overhanging and outrageous and then better on up. May 25, 2012
Dave Rone
Custer, SD
  5.8 WI6
Dave Rone   Custer, SD  
  5.8 WI6
My partner and I both thought that it would be better for the pitch two belayer to use an anchor about 15' right of the anchor that's at the base of the second pitch. It's a more protected position and we added a second fixed pin. Check it out. We also thought the approach pitch was easy but sketchy, and the first pitch solid M7 (when dry).

Furthermore, the route is closer to 150 meters, not feet. Dec 8, 2013

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