Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 1,460 ft 445 m
GPS: 44.43312, -70.52698
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 198,832 total · 880/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on May 21, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall, Chris Duca

Description Suggest change

In my experience, granite rarely forms buckets and when it does form buckets, it's rarely steep. Shagg Crag has all three: steep, juggy, granite climbing.

Located about an hour away from North Conway, Shagg sees a fair amount of traffic, though it is still possible to have the crag by yourself on a sunny weekend. The crag gets afternoon sun and there is little to offer shade, so expect a warm climbing experience. This can be a great thing on sunny winter days, or a curse on sunny summer days. Get up early on warm days and climb until the wall comes into the sun.

Besides Waimea at Rumney, Shagg might be the most stacked cliff in all of New England. If you're looking for endurance-esque 5.12's, I can't think of a better crag. The guidebook lists twelve routes rated 5.12 and almost all of them are quality. Shaggin Wagon (12a), Ginseng Route (12c), Meltdown (12c/d), and Shagg It (12d), stand out as unique classics. If you're looking for routes of a more moderate grade, Shagg might offer enough for a day or so, and The Great Escape (10d) should not be missed.

Getting There Suggest change

From the south (starting at Norway, ME):

Take Rte. 26 towards West Paris and turn right (east) onto Rte. 219.

After 4.8 miles, turn left (north) onto Tuell Hill Rd. Follow Tuell Hill Rd. 1.7 miles where you turn left to continue on Tuell Hill Rd. and not continue onto Heath Hill Rd., Tuell Hill Rd continues until it dead-ends into Redding Road just after a bridge. Reset your odometer at the bridge and turn left (west) onto Redding Road.  At 3.9 or 4.0 miles there is an obvious pullout on the left. Park here; the trail starts on the other side of the road, which is marked as Little Concord Pond State ParkTrailhead and is easily found on Google Maps.

DO NOT turn right on North Shore Rd at the bottom of the hill- it is a private, dead end road.

DO NOT leave your trash, leave your bowel movements or camp in the parking lot.  The parking lot is privately owned (not part of the state park and the owner does not appreciate the state of it, whether or not it is climbers doing this).  

Follow the trail for about 10 minutes until you come to a pond and a trail junction (the left fork goes to the pond, the middle fork contours east around the pond to an amazing rock to jump off after your hot day of climbing, the right fork heads up a steep ridge/hill marked by a green sign 'Bald/Speckled Mountain'. Take the right fork up the hill for 15-20 minutes until you reach a fork in the trail, immediately before a steeper section of the trail.  Take the right hand fork (a small rock cairn here denotes the climbers path), and follow this through the woods for another 10 to 15 minutes until you’re deposited in front of the cliff. If you miss this turn, you'll continue for 10 minutes to the summit. Total hiking time is roughly 30 minutes.

71 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Shagg Crag Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Shagg Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 214
The Great Escape
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 39
Shagg Zag
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 99
Two Shaved Heads
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 90
Short Bob
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 134
Shaggin Wagon
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 157
Ginseng Route
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 94
Meltdown
Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 35
What About Bobcat
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 25
Tightrope
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 91
Shagg It
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 13
Fat Bastard (link-up)
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 10
Nice Tooth (link-up)
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 12
What About Bob?
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 8
The Ritual
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 10
When The Fat Lady Sings
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Great Escape Main Face
 214
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Shagg Zag Main Face
 39
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Two Shaved Heads Main Face
 99
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Short Bob Main Face
 90
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Shaggin Wagon Main Face
 134
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Ginseng Route Main Face
 157
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Meltdown Main Face
 94
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
What About Bobcat Main Face
 35
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Tightrope Main Face
 25
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Shagg It Main Face
 91
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Fat Bastard (link-up) Main Face
 13
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Nice Tooth (link-up) Main Face
 10
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
What About Bob? Main Face
 12
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
The Ritual Bird's Perch
 8
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
When The Fat Lady Sings Main Face
 10
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Shagg Crag »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

loading