Nearby Mountain Bike Rides
From MP's sister site: MTB
In my experience, granite rarely forms buckets and when it does form buckets, it's rarely steep. Shagg Crag has all three: steep, juggy, granite climbing.
Located about an hour away from North Conway, Shagg sees a fair amount of traffic, though it is still possible to have the crag by yourself on a sunny weekend. The crag gets afternoon sun and there is little to offer shade, so expect a warm climbing experience. This can be a great thing on sunny winter days, or a curse on sunny summer days. Get up early on warm days and climb until the wall comes into the sun.
Besides Waimea at Rumney, Shagg might be the most stacked cliff in all of New England. If you're looking for endurance-esque 5.12's, I can't think of a better crag. The guidebook lists twelve routes rated 5.12 and almost all of them are quality. Shaggin Wagon (12a), Ginseng Route (12c), Meltdown (12c/d), and Shagg It (12d), stand out as unique classics. If you're looking for routes of a more moderate grade, Shagg might offer enough for a day or so, and The Great Escape (10d) should not be missed.
| || Kayte on Shaggin Wagon |
From the south (North Conway):
Take Rte. 26 towards West Paris and turn right (east) onto Rte. 219.
After 4.8 miles, turn left (north) onto Tuell Hill Rd. Follow Tuell Hill Rd. until it dead-ends into Redding/Shagg Rds. just after a bridge. Reset your odometer at the bridge and turn left (west) onto Redding/Shagg Rds.
At 3.9 or 4.0 miles there is a pullout on the left. Park here; the trail starts on the other side of the road.
Follow the trail for about 10 minutes until you come to a pond and a trail junction (the left fork goes to the pond, the middle fork contours east around the pond, the right fork heads up a steep ridge/hill. Take the right fork up the hill for 15-20 minutes and keep your eyes peeled for a subtle climber's trail that branches off to the right (east) and drops down around to the Shagg Crag. If you miss this turn, you will continue for 5 minutes to an obvious trail junction (the righthand fork of which leads to the summit of Bald Mountain). This is a worthy detour and it is easy to visit the summit and then retrace your steps back to the climber's trail. Total hiking time is about 30-40 minutes.
48 Total Routes
['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',19],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Shagg Crag
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Shagg Crag:
Zagg Shagg 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Short Bob 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 50'
Meltdown 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Shagg It 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Fat Pig 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
Diesel 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport, 50'
Featured Route For Shagg Crag
What About Bob? 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b ME
: Shagg Crag
What About Bob? (WAB) was bolted by Bob Parrot in '96/'97 and climbs the steep white section of rock to the right of Short Shagg, beginning in the thin band of quartzite-mixed rock that shoots straight up from the bouldery start. Cryptic and acrobatic (as described by Chris Cook), this route is hard to on-sight for 5.12 climbers. Tense climbing with a few possible sucker holds (depending on your height beta) lead to good jugs and a traverse to the right. Face climb to a big ledge, breath, and p...[more] Browse More Classics in ME
Brett Cary on a classic arete in the Shagg boulder...
A look at the steepness
Grady on an unknown boulder problem just below the...
Chris Duelin eats pieces of Shagg Crag for breakfa...
Trail head for Shagg Crag. This is on the right a...
|By Jay Knower|
From: Campton, NH
Dec 8, 2007
Shagg Pond is one of the best cliffs in the country for 5.12 sport routes. If you are looking for technical routes, powerful routes, weird routes, or endurance routes, Shagg has a 5.12 for you.
|By Chris Duca|
From: Havertown, PA
Dec 12, 2007
If you didn't post this area description, sooner or later I was going to have to! Thanks!
|By Matty Zane|
Mar 23, 2008
Is their a guide book to this area? I know its listed in the rock climbing New England book, but I wan wondering if their was guidebook specifically for this area
|By Ladd Raine|
From: Plymouth, NH
Mar 24, 2008
I happen to have a homemade guidebook complete with FAs and some topos. Feel free to contact me via email if you want a copy.
From: Near Joshua Tree
Jul 19, 2008
For the most part Shagg Crag was developed in its entirety by Erik Mushial and Bob Parrott. I have it from the highest authority that the birth of Shagg took place over the course of one summer fueled by bong smoke and cases of warm beer. It would be safe to assume that any given route here, unless established in some later unrelated effort, should be credited as a collaboration of these two great New England climbers.
From: Portland, ME
Jul 21, 2008
Nate Kimball put up a least a route or two as well. I cannot comment on the presence of beer or bongs.
|By chris deulen|
From: Merriam, Kansas
Mar 29, 2009
The parking area is at the top of a steep hill, with the trail starting across the road. In the winter and early spring, this road is not plowed and one must park at the base of this hill to avoid the sticky snow and getting stuck on either side (which has happened several times this month already!). Also, the road becomes extremely muddy this time of year, and 4WD is strongly encouraged.
Jun 30, 2010
Did a really cool link up today at the right end of the cliff. It starts on Cell Block D and then after the crux of Cell Block D traverses left into Looney Tunes. I have no idea of the name or grade. Anyone know?
|By Dominic Benson|
From: Bangkok, Thailand
Jul 30, 2010
can't forget Jim Ewing, "What about Bob" is rad.
From: Concord, MA
Aug 25, 2010
Maybe its just me, but after a 3 hour, meandering drive from conway, I'm inclined to believe the the directions here were not quite right. Here are mine. I you follow them, I promise you will not get as lost as I did...
Take rt 26 towards West Paris, turn east onto 219. After 4.8 miles, turn left onto Tuell Hill Rd. After 1.6 miles take a left, continuing on Tuell Hill rd. After .9 miles, Tuell Hill rd. ends. Take a left on Reading. After 3.9/4 miles, there is a pullout on the left. Park here, the trail starts on the other side of the road.
Follow the trail for about 10 minutes until you come to a pond. At this trail junction, take the right path going up a steep hill. follow the path going uphill, and after 15/20 minutes when the trail starts to level off, take a small trail that breaks off right. After a couple minutes, you will be at the base of the crag.
|By Mike Veazey|
From: Exeter, NH
Apr 23, 2011
Two mystery pitches above Kick to the Teeth. One is a 7 bolt pitch at mid 5.10 the next finishes to the top of the cliff. Anyone know anything about these?
|By Jon Doty|
Oct 11, 2011
Found a grigri there monday...pm me with the biner color, tape color and tell me whether it is a grigri 1 or 2 and I will return it to rightful owner.
Apr 6, 2012
I was hoping for a trip to Shagg sometime this spring and had emailed Ladd for a guidebook. I guess he changed emails or isn't around or something, either way, I was wondering if anyone happened to have a copy of that homemade guidebook he had that could email it to me?
From: Hopkinton, MA
Mar 11, 2013
Is it dry yet?