Malibu Creek State Park Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 635 ft | 194 m |
| GPS: |
34.09609, -118.73099 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 790,838 total · 3,392/month | |
| Shared By: | Jordan Katz on Oct 8, 2006 · Updates | |
| Admins: | jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
Malibu Creek State Park is a state park established in 1974 to preserve the Malibu Creek canyon in the Santa Monica Mountains west of Los Angeles. The park encompasses 8,215 acres and offers a wide variety of quality sport climbing and developed bouldering, as well as, excellent top-rope routes on the Planet of the Apes Wall. The Park offers over 100 bolted sport climbs, ranging from 5.5 - 5.14, on steep pocketed volcanic rock. While climbing is extremely popular at Malibu Creek State Park, we share this popular destination with hikers, swimmers, mountain bikers, and a variety of other users. Please practice courtesy and careful stewardship to help preserve this treasure for all communities.
The rock at Malibu Creek State Park is pillow basalt breccia that has lithified into solid rock known as welded tuff like that at Smith Rock in central Oregon. Whilst containing hard fragments, it’s not impervious to rain in the way some think. This particular volcanic breccia is a rock type that contains very angular, hard, but broken volcanic fragments in a matrix held together by finer softer grained material. It needs the same 2-3 days to dry. Geological Gems of California State Parks on the park website details that the pillow basalt is now pillow basalt breccia in that area because their once large solid structures had long been broken up and intermixed with ocean sediments. Besides, the walls' deep pockets tend to remain wet and slimy even though the wall at first look dry enough. All the more reason to wait a few days after rain for the pockets to fully dry.
Park is open from sunrise to sunset; no dogs, drones, or new route development are permitted.
Getting There
The park is located four miles south of Highway 101 on Las Virgenes/Malibu Canyon Road. There is a $12 fee for parking within the Park, but a free alternative exists by turning right (west) on Mulholland Hwy from Las Virgenes Road and parking on either side of the highway where the Grasslands Trail cuts through the Park. Due to the quality of the fire roads that traverse the park the approach is straightforward, especially via mountain bike.
Classic Climbing Routes at Malibu Creek State Park
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