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Johnny B. Good S 
King Lives On, The S 
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Zen and the Art of Masturbation S 

Johnny B. Good 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Gary Drexler, Tim Powers - 2004
Page Views: 3,976
Submitted By: Chris Duca on May 2, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (116)
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Moving out the bulge near the route's end. Photo ...


A bulging start mixed with a high class technical slab and gymnastic moves out a steep roof makes for one of the finer routes at the Gallery.

The route begins with an "in your face" bulging boulder problem that gains you access to the meat of the climb.

Finesse your way up the incredibly fun thin slab using body weight opposition, high steps, and keen route finding skills.

Rest below the massive roof, then monkey your way out the bulging roof, making some fun and well protected throws to massive huecos and flakes. Finish up pockets and one last hard move to the arete out right.


The route immediately to the left of "27 Years of Climbing" that breaks the large roof looming above.


9 bolts plus chain anchors.

Photos of Johnny B. Good Slideshow Add Photo
Super overhung!
Super overhung!
The slab below the roof.  Photo by, Liam Griffin
The slab below the roof. Photo by, Liam Griffin
Almost there!
Almost there!
Steeeeeep upper section
Steeeeeep upper section
Just keep moving through the steep part.  The hold...
Just keep moving through the steep part. The hold...

Comments on Johnny B. Good Add Comment
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By Alex Mandrila
From: Ypsilanti, Michigan
Jun 18, 2015

Both anchor bolts are extremely loose as of June 14, 2015. The route is fantastic, but it was a nightmare cleaning. It's been reported to badbolts.com and soon to redriverclimbing.com so Team Suck Climbing can take a look at it.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 25, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

After the first couple of moves, this climb eases off to the 5.7-5.8 range to the head wall. That said, dont underestimate the upper section- it be burly!
By Gif Zafred
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Nov 30, 2010

Only hard part is the steep section up top. Great choice for your first 5.11. Clipping the anchors seemed like the crux because of the pump and the holds aren't huge (like the rest of the route).
By S. Neoh
Oct 17, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

+1 about being a good choice for the inspiring 5.11 climber. A decent hold down and to the left of the anchors should make clipping the chains not the crux (assuming one is not pumped out by then).
By Tim Powers
From: Indiana
Sep 15, 2013

I bolted this route in memory of my friend John Bronaugh.
By S. Neoh
Sep 15, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Thank you for putting it up. I never had the pleasure of meeting the man but, by all accounts, his passing was a very sad loss for RRG and all who visit The Red.
By delly84
From: Golden, Co
Apr 22, 2015

Nice Whipper on Johnny B. Good
By Henry Robinson
From: Columbia, SC
Aug 24, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Beware, a massive hold/section of rock broke off to the left of the last bolt on the slab face and almost hit the belayer. 8/10/15
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