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University Wall
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British C2
Avg: 3.8 from 29
votes
Routes in Grand Wall Area
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Free Grand, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Genius Loci S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Golden Throat Charmer T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Grand Wall, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0 |
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Grinning Weasel, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Inner Fire S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Left Side, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Roman Chimneys T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Shadow, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Ten Years After T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2+ |
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University Wall T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C2 |
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Upper Black Dyke S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wall of Attrition T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 900 ft (273 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV |
| GPS: | 49.68218, -123.14798 |
| FA: | FA Tim Auger, Dan Tate, Hamish Mutch and Glen Woodsworth 1965 FFA by Peter Croft, Hamish Fraser and Greg Foweraker 1988 |
| Page Views: | 25,094 total · 126/month |
| Shared By: | Evan Stevens on Aug 6, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Could this be the best 'burly' route in Squamish? Steep, physical crack climbing from the word go, with no warm up. Amazing and exposed positions, great protection (on the cruxes), what more could you ask for?
p1. The rudest warm up I know of. 12a for about 65'. clip the ancient fixed purple TCU and punch it through some steep easy moves to a ledge. Move into the left facing corner and deal with the usual wetness. Even in the driest, most drought stricken summers, I have NEVER seen this pitch dry. Pull a wet lock or two and make your way to the base of the evil overhanging slot. Grovel your way to the chains.
p2. 12-, 70'. Big fingers in the corner leads to an undercling out left. Going straight up is the Shadow, maybe the best pitch in Squamish? (12d+). Get creative and grovel to the chains.
p3. 11+ 40'. If you hit everything right I guess its only 11+, BUT on the OS, expect it to feel harder. Fingers in a wide chimney/slot over a roof to a great ledge.
p4. 5.11-, 100'. Great fingers in a corner, either go left on some under clings or straight up to a roof and underclings, a few fixed pins. Both ways are 11-, and I don't think either one is better or easier, having done both.
p5. 10+ 100'. From the comfy tree belay pull past a wide slot to some amazing steep fingers.
p6. real 5.11 (maybe R?) 100'. Get your stem on and bust out your RPs and small nuts. Finesse your way up to some horizontal breaks then go straight left on the finger tip traverse with no gear. Don't fall, then get some gear in and climb the amazingly thin and hollow flake - I am 190lbs and it has held me a half a dozen times so pull away! Clip a bolt and do a weird mystery slab move and traverse back right to the corner, and climb it to the comfy belay ledge. Going straight up is the Shadow variation, 12-, RPs.
p7. 10+ 70'. All fixed pins and bolts, traverses right a bunch, short crux.
p8. 11+ 80'. THE sting in the tail. Hard and spicey. Pull a hard slab/mantel move off the belay, go to the head wall and traverse left to the new free bolt. Clip it and balance your way up the wall to grab the ledge. Hand traverse till you get to the fixed knifeblade tips traverse and punch it. Pull on to an easy ledge and don't slip on the pine needles. Watch for heinous rope drag and belay in the trees.
You can continue straight up from here on the Roman Chimneys or walk off belly good ledge.
Location
Continue past the base of the Grand Wall as for Seasoned in the Sun. Keep going for about 2 minutes until you see the bushy ramp that cuts back right and up via a few fixed lines to the obvious STEEP and clean U-wall. A fixed line is in place for the exposed traverse to the start. A belay seat is a good idea for P1 and P2 (top of) belays.
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