Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,038 total · 37/month
Shared By: Scott W on Apr 28, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

This route is a great finish to the Grand Wall. It continues up after climbing to the Bellygood ledge via any number of route combinations that get you to the ledge. All anchors are bolted, as per usual in Squamish.

Pitch 1: Mostly gear, it climbs to a bolt then up to a thin seam that peters out(11a) right as face holds appear and the Boot Flake. Belay on top of the bootflake.

Pitch 2: The Boot Flake(11a), exposed laybacking or squeeze/offwidth technique up the initial 15 feet(the crux) to more laybacking/faceclimbing, though much easier...bring a large cam(I think we used a 4-6" piece) to protect the offwithy bit.

Pitch 3: The business as I called it, follow straight up through the gradually steeper corner to a pin, "chimney" up the 11d overhanging finger crack...locks are totally solid, but the climbing is basically horizontal, wild, fun, hard. Pull the lip of the overhang to a huge ledge and the final pitch. It can be avoid by going left on sketchy gear and pins at 10d, I haven't done it, it didn't look nearly as good as the chimney.

Pitch 4: Standard Squamish crack-in-corner 5.10b, the top out is very sandy.

Location

If going via the Grand Wall, follow the Belly Good ledge left, for about 15 yards till you find the obvious pitch leading up to the Boot Flake.

Protection

Single set up cams up 2 inches, double on smalls to .5", one large cam(4.5-6")

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