All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > The Chief > Grand Wall Area
Wall of Attrition
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 900 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Bob Milward, Jim Campbell Oct '84. FFA p3 Scott Young '85. FCA / FFA P5&6 John Rosholt, Peder Ourom '96|
|Page Views:||1,070 total · 14/month|
|Shared By:||claytown on Aug 22, 2011|
|Admins:||Kate Lynn, Nate Ball|
DescriptionWall of Attrition is called route #26 on the top #50 chief routes list. For us, it was pretty dirty with a decent amount of loose rock, vegetation and required gardening on lead. All in all, I don't really recommend the route... or at least, do the top 25 first and come over here if you're really itching for something new.
P1 (5.10-): Go straight left on the ledge about 25 feet to the tight dihedral with a continuous crack. Beware the long, skinny flake in the corner at the start, it is not really in there (but you use it anyways). Continue straight up and maybe slightly right through the left end of the roof bands on some ok gear then up a little more to a bolted anchor. (Note: about half way up the pitch, there is a flake that is easy to traverse out left to a ledge. I went over there and it was all mossy and seemed off route).
P2 (5.11b): The money pitch. Climb seams past 4 or 5 fixed pins to a series of three stacked flakes in the corner that you can either jam or lieback. The seam was rather dirty and grassy so you might want to have your nut tool ready to clean on lead. Finish at a bolted anchor. Recommend to keep going and link to the next anchor as it would be an uncomfortable belay.
P3 (5.10-): Continue up and right to another bolted belay on a ledge at the base of the main dihedral #3 or #4 to back up since bolts are rusty).
P4 (5.10): The dihedral pitch. Start out on a 15 section of wide crack. A #4 might fit but we didnt take one. You can place a #3 deeper in one spot or just punch it to the ledge that starts the main dihedral. Climb this left leaning to right leaning dihedral past bushes and loose chockstones. Be prepared to clean on lead and be careful not to dislodge the loose blocks. Topo shows bolt or FP for traverse left at the end but I didnt see anything. Grey or yellow alien protects the traverse well. End at bolted belay.
(From here, the old 2001 McClane book shows the last two pitches as mid 5.10 but I had a different experience, which I will write up here since I spent plenty of time unsuccessfully looking for the documented line).
P5 (10+ / 11-): Go up and left around the corner from the belay. Punch it through dirty, loose stuff. Place a couple marginal pieces. Pull a hard move to claw some dirt until you can grab the tree root (if you're tall you might not have to jump to it). Yard on this and tie it off, continuing to a really chossy ledge. I got lost here but I really think you just want to go straight left at this ledge because there is a three bolt anchor over there. I tried to go up and right (as topo indicated) and ended up on a poorly protected slab which I tried to start 4 times before backing off. Then I tried going far right on the ledge, which went nowhere, then finally back left and found that anchor. Book says bold 10c. Id say harder than that, chossy and a potentially bad fall on the hard move.
P6 (5.11- PG13): Looking up and slightly right from the bolted belay you will see 2 right angling hand cracks (slung horn with fixed biner on top) and a right angling flake just right of these. Choose one (I took the left crack) and climb past the pinnacle, clipping the fixed sling up and left into a dihedral. I thought this dihedral was full-on. Not great gear and really thin, I ended up aiding it using four micro brass offset nuts in little crystals (including the tiny black one) and it still felt sketch. Climb (or aid) this dihedral then pull some thin flake/sport moves up and right to reach the far left end of the dance platform behind some massive boulders. Use the rope to extend the anchor all the way back to a tree (or further to a bolted anchor) and a #1 & #2 behind a chocktone up there and then just use the fixed cordalette as a directional.
To get off, traverse right behind the huge boulders to the bolted anchor. Walk the bellygood style ledge to 4th class that takes you up to the roman chimneys start. You can rap from this tree back down to the the far left side of bellygood and escape, or link into upper black dyke or some other route.
LocationJust left of University Wall, starting from the U Wall approach ledge. All of this is about a 5 minute walk left/uphill from the grand wall scramble start. The approach ledge is basically right above Seasoned in the Sun.
To approach, go up and right on the U Wall approach ledge almost to the end (where U Wall starts). Then scramble up steep 4th class gully past bushes and use an old, ratty fixed rope to go up and left to another little ledge with a slung tree. Belay here to start the climb.