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Routes in Grand Wall Area

Cruel Shoes T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Free Grand, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Grand Wall, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0
Left Side, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Roman Chimneys T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Shadow, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Stairway to Heaven S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
University Wall T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Upper Black Dyke S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wall of Attrition T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Peter Croft
Page Views: 3,128 total, 81/month
Shared By: Jesse Huey on Oct 8, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Description

The S H A D O W! One of the best pitches in Squamish and the potentially the universe! The first free ascent was completed onsite by Peter Croft a feat to my knowledge that is still unrepeated. I had a chance to ask Peter about this one several years ago on a back country trip to the Sierra and his eyes lit up when I mentioned The Shadow and the University Wall.

If you are going to climb The Shadow I can't recommend enough doing it as one 50m pitch. You can climb the University Wall to get the first pitch figured out so you don't get too pumped when you go for it or you can just go for it onsite linking through like I've witnessed many people do on their first go. Local climbers have done an awesome job cleaning the fixed gear out of the corner (including removing random belay bolts in the middle of the pitch - Evan Stevens is THE MAN).

Go get it!

Location

The most proud part of the Chief

Protection

Full rack, lots of The red bd stopper #6 or #7 are awesome!
Absolutely incredible climb. Best I climbed in Squamish.

This one took ages to 'learn' how to even climb the thing, I found the top moves relied more on intuition than fitness. Significantly harder than the Great Arch, 13a from U-Wall anchor, 13b from ground are more realistic grades.

Here's the gear I used, if you where more solid than me you could get away with less for sure:

Starting from base of U-Wall P1
Crappy fixed purple tcu
.4 C4
Green Alien / Green DMM Wallnut
Blue DMM Wallnut
3 C4
.75 C4
.3 C4
1 C4
Green Alien
.4 C4

Green Alien or U-Wall anchor

.5 C4
.75 C4
.5 C4
.4 C4
Yellow Offset DMM Wallnut
Draw
Yellow Offset DMM Wallnut
Blue Offset DMM Wallnut
1 C4
Yellow DMM Wallnut
Green DMM Wallnut
Yellow / Green Offset Alien
Blue DMM Wallnut
Silver DMM Wallnut
Draw

Opt .3 C4 for second

Have fun! Dec 2, 2017