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Routes in Grand Wall Area

Cruel Shoes T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Free Grand, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Grand Wall, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0
Left Side, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Roman Chimneys T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Shadow, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Stairway to Heaven S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
University Wall T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Upper Black Dyke S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wall of Attrition T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Nick Taylor, Peter Peart
Page Views: 3,013 total, 30/month
Shared By: Lisa Montgomery on Jul 25, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description

Excellent route. Climb through some thin face and pull out left under roof to main crack. Crack goes from fingers to OW. OW section is probably no harder than 5.9.

Location

This pitch is located on the left side of the Split Pillar. Belay at anchor before bolt ladder on P3 (5.10b traverse pitch) of the Grand Wall. Climb route and belay at the top (you can rappel from here) or continue up Grinning Weasel about 15 ft. and make an exposed traverse right to gain belay at the top of the Split Pillar.

Protection

Single set small, medium nuts; single set .5" (green alien) to 4" cams (C4 #5 camalot). Optional extra .33" cam (black alien), 1" cam (#.75 camalot), 4" cam (C4 #5 camalot).

Photos

Good offset crack climbing practice. Goes from #.3-#.4 all the way up to baggy #4s (maybe tight #5s). Jul 8, 2017
Did this back in 2000 or so. At the base I looked up and decided to leave the #4 BD, cause I deemed it too heavy. After onsighting through the crux ( it being my first in the grade) I knew I couldn't back down. My 1992 guidebook said...easier after the crux.

When I clipped the anchor I was well over 50+ feet run out on my last #3 cam, which was fully tipped. I was visible shaking and my belayer was very unhappy. Had I come off towards the end of the OW, I would have definitely cratered into the slab below. Grim. Aug 14, 2015
Evan Stevens
  5.11d
Evan Stevens  
  5.11d
Double up on the #4 camalots for sure, unless you like to run it out for a LONG ways. The OW is cheatable, so you don't really have to climb that style, but its more like 10- up there. This pitch used to be rated 11+, and is definitely soft for 12-, especially if you know how to jam! Jul 27, 2009