Type: Trad
FA: FCFA: Scott Cosgrove
Page Views: 3,410 total · 34/month
Shared By: Marc-Andre on Oct 4, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

The Grand Wall can go completely free via a number of harder variations to the original line.
The Free Grand combines fun enduro laybacking with delicate face climbing in a spectacular position on the wall.Climb Apron Strings, Merci-Me, and the traverse to the base of the pillar but belay at the first station below the short bolt ladder.

Var 1: 5.12a/b. Start up the thin corner as for 'The Left Side' then clip a bolt out right and make a series of face moves to the base of the right side of the pillar, then up the pillar to the awesome belay ledge at the top. This avoids the short bolt ladder to the right.

Var 2: 5.13a. Climb the Sword but instead of grabbing the chains at the top, continue laybacking up the arching corner as for the 'Underfling'. At the last bolt before the original hanging belay, pull a cool mantle with some thin crimping to a station at a no hands rest.

Var 3: 5.13a. A short but tricky pitch. From the belay, traverse leftward along a thin ramp, a tricky move at the end gains the ledge below Perry's Layback. Maybe a bit soft for the grade, but a great pitch nonetheless!

Location

See 'Grand Wall Area'

Protection

Gear for the Grand Wall + extra draws and some thin wires for the start of The Left Side.

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