Avg: 3.9 from 20 votes
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 900 ft (273 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||FFA by Peter Croft, Hamish Fraser and Greg Foweraker|
|Page Views:||21,006 total · 144/month|
|Shared By:||Evan Stevens on Aug 6, 2009|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes are currently closed until further notice. These closures will be updates as more assessments are completed.
Grand Wall Closure Area
The base of the Grand Wall (between Sense of Urgency and Commando Crack), the Undertow bouldering area and all trails leading to these areas. This includes climbing routes such as Java Jive, Coyote, Flex Capacitor, Commando Crack, Movin’ to Montana, Knacker Cracker, Teenage Wasteland, Exasperator, Peasant’s Route, War of the Raptors, Cruel Shoes, The Flake, Apron Strings, Sunday Whites, and Sense of Urgency.
Bouldering Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
Western Dihedrals Closure Area
A very large rockfall recently occurred where the Western Dihedrals meet the Grand Wall. The following routes in this area are now closed: Deadend Dihedral, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Closure map to be posted shortly.
Slhanay Closure Area
All routes between and including Dogzilla and The White Feather.
Slhanay Closure Area Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
COVID-19 - Follow BC travel and medical guidelines. The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to Provincial Travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and Health Authority directions for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
Parks Closures and Day Use Permits Parks were closed in 2020 then a day use permit system was instituted in some places. Please check Parks and Rec Site Closures for up-to-date information. Specifically, for the Stawamus Chief before using to ascend or descend for climbing.
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary, This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· the whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· the Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· the dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping.
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
p1. The rudest warm up I know of. 12a for about 65'. clip the ancient fixed purple TCU and punch it through some steep easy moves to a ledge. Move into the left facing corner and deal with the usual wetness. Even in the driest, most drought stricken summers, I have NEVER seen this pitch dry. Pull a wet lock or two and make your way to the base of the evil overhanging slot. Grovel your way to the chains.
p2. 12-, 70'. Big fingers in the corner leads to an undercling out left. Going straight up is the Shadow, maybe the best pitch in Squamish? (12d+). Get creative and grovel to the chains.
p3. 11+ 40'. If you hit everything right I guess its only 11+, BUT on the OS, expect it to feel harder. Fingers in a wide chimney/slot over a roof to a great ledge.
p4. 5.11-, 100'. Great fingers in a corner, either go left on some under clings or straight up to a roof and underclings, a few fixed pins. Both ways are 11-, and I don't think either one is better or easier, having done both.
p5. 10+ 100'. From the comfy tree belay pull past a wide slot to some amazing steep fingers.
p6. real 5.11 (maybe R?) 100'. Get your stem on and bust out your RPs and small nuts. Finesse your way to some fixed gear and go straight left on the finger tip traverse with no gear. Don't fall, then get some gear in and climb the amazingly thin and hollow flake - I am 190lbs and it has held me a half a dozen times so pull away! Clip a bolt and do a weird mystery slab move and traverse back right to the corner, and climb it to the comfy belay ledge. Going straight up is the Shadow variation, 12-, RPs.
p7. 10+ 70'. All fixed pins and bolts, traverses right a bunch, short crux.
p8. 11+ 80'. THE sting in the tail. Hard and spicey. Pull a hard slab/mantel move off the belay, go to the head wall and traverse left to the new free bolt. Clip it and balance your way up the wall to grab the ledge. Hand traverse till you get to the fixed knifeblade tips traverse and punch it. Pull on to an easy ledge and don't slip on the pine needles. Watch for heinous rope drag and belay in the trees.
You can continue straight up from here on the Roman Chimneys or walk off belly good ledge.