Type: Sport, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches
FA: Jacob Cook, Drew M, Oct 2019
Page Views: 868 total · 29/month
Shared By: Drew Marshall on Dec 22, 2019 · Updates
Admins: Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Access Issue: SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL CLOSURES - UPDATED SEPT 20th 2021 Details
Access Issue: Camping and COVID-19 - Guidelines Details

Description

A stellar 5-pitch adventure slab route, beginning on bellygood lege.

The hardest sections are featured technical slab rather than pure friction.

Bolted on lead. The hard sections are all well protected, with some runouts in 5.10 territory.

Dries very quickly except p3, which seeps after heavy rain but is climbable while wet.

10 draws is all you need!

P1 (12c, 20m)

slab slab slab!

P2 (12d, 20m)

more slab. Routefind carefully at the top to keep the runout 5.10

P3 (11d, 30m)

slab to a big ledge

P4 (10c, 45m)

start by climbing a tree left of the belay. Transfer onto the rock and follow spaced bolts - aim for the tree high above. Once at the tree, follow the traverse of the gods rightward to one of many bolted anchors. Use extendable draws generously

P5 (11a, 45m)

A left-angling dyke that's easier than it looks. Enjoy the tasty "slab dessert" at the top!

P4-5 Variation - From Slab Kid to Slab Man: the Baptist of Friction (12b, 40m, 12c, 35m)

A right-angling dyke that's harder than it looks

Climbed and bolted by Jacob Cook Tony Mclane and myself.

Location

Begins at a bolted anchor on Bellygood ledge, 30m right of the upper black dyke.
Look for a high first bolt on a left-rising dyke

Protection

10 draws

Photos

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