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> Stawamus Chief
> Grand Wall Area
The Grinning Weasel
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.6 from 5
votes
Routes in Grand Wall Area
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Free Grand, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Genius Loci S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Golden Throat Charmer T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Grand Wall, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0 |
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Grinning Weasel, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Inner Fire S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Left Side, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Roman Chimneys T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Shadow, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Ten Years After T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2+ |
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University Wall T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C2 |
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Upper Black Dyke S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wall of Attrition T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 65 ft (20 m), Grade II |
| GPS: | 49.68218, -123.14797 |
| FA: | Peter Croft, Greg Foweraker 1982 |
| Page Views: | 1,433 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Steven Stosky on Aug 27, 2020 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Access Issue: FALCON NESTING ROUTE CLOSURE - FROM THE GRAND WALL TO SUNSET STRIP
Details
As of May 28th, 2026:
To protect Peregrine Falcons and park visitors, the climbing routes the Grand Wall (specifically Pitch 4 [the Split Pillar] and above), the Black Dyke, Europa, Millenium Falcon, The Gauntlet, and Sunset Strip, are CLOSED to climbing. The shorter routes along the lower portion of the Grand Wall and Western Dihedrals in this area remain open.
Bellygood Ledge and climbs above Bellygood Ledge remain open. If the cliffs at the top of Planet Caravan are used for BASE jumping, flights should avoid the closure area. BC Parks will continue to monitor the nest site and may update the closure area. BC Parks will lift the closure when the nest is no longer in use.
Peregrine Falcons and their nests are protected under the BC Wildlife Act. It is an offense under the Wildlife Act to harass nesting birds or damage their nests.
Please report falcon sightings to parkinfo@gov.bc.ca Reports from climbers are essential for ensuring falcons are protected without unnecessarily limiting climbing opportunities.
To protect Peregrine Falcons and park visitors, the climbing routes the Grand Wall (specifically Pitch 4 [the Split Pillar] and above), the Black Dyke, Europa, Millenium Falcon, The Gauntlet, and Sunset Strip, are CLOSED to climbing. The shorter routes along the lower portion of the Grand Wall and Western Dihedrals in this area remain open.
Bellygood Ledge and climbs above Bellygood Ledge remain open. If the cliffs at the top of Planet Caravan are used for BASE jumping, flights should avoid the closure area. BC Parks will continue to monitor the nest site and may update the closure area. BC Parks will lift the closure when the nest is no longer in use.
Peregrine Falcons and their nests are protected under the BC Wildlife Act. It is an offense under the Wildlife Act to harass nesting birds or damage their nests.
Please report falcon sightings to parkinfo@gov.bc.ca Reports from climbers are essential for ensuring falcons are protected without unnecessarily limiting climbing opportunities.
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