This is one of the best 5.9's in the area and sees heavy traffic. From the stiff start in the begging to the endless hand jams this climb is a must do.
The crux is located immediately off the ground but good gear is at your waist. The climbing easy off quiet a bit after that. Climb the obvious crack from the middle ledge.
The Guide book does not show it, but someone has added a rap rings to the Tree at the top of the 2nd and also to the tree a top the 1st.
**** Please use the walk off *****
If you rap you will be pissing off the line people coming up. The walk off is nice and easy. From the top of the climb move back and left and you can't miss the trail. It will take you right back to the base of the climb.
There's also several ways of getting your ropes stuck, between the angle of the buttress, the mid-route tree, and the crack itself. I would have preferred to walk off!
I thought the starting moves only had a little bit of 5.10 in them (especially after I plugged up the best hold with gear ;-0), and I found them a bit reachy.
Bulletheads South
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