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> Stawamus Chief
> Bulletheads
> Bulletheads South
Slot Machine
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.4 from 454
votes
Routes in Bulletheads South
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A Cream of White Mice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Alegria S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Arnold Grumplewimp T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Black Book, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Chasse Right S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Coogee Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dances with Bolts S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dora's Delight T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fiesta Daze S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Golden Labs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Manana T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nuclear Arms T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rainy Day Woman T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Shannon's Dancing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Slot Machine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stairway to Heaven S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Triptoe T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Two Rats and a Titmouse S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Women In Comfortable Shoes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Xenolith Dance S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 49.67668, -123.1525 |
| FA: | Bob Milward, Jim Campbell April 1983 |
| Page Views: | 15,344 total · 65/month |
| Shared By: | Mike fenice on Jul 20, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
This is one of the best 5.9's in the area and sees heavy traffic. From the stiff start in the beginning to the endless hand jams this climb is a must do.
The crux is located immediately off the ground but good gear is at your waist. The climbing eases off quite a bit after that. Climb the obvious crack from the middle ledge.
Descent: Easy walk off to climber's left.
Rappels 2x 30 meters is possible, but tie your ends and don't throw your ropes onto parties likely below.
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