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 ADVANCED
Gill's Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Cleveland Route TR 
Acid Rock TR 
Blood Alcohol TR 
Boy Scout T,TR 
Fantasy TR 
Gill's Cheek T,TR 
Gill's Crack T,TR 
Gill's Nose TR 
Ice TR 
In Search of the Lost Libido TR 
Peyote Blues TR 
Psilocybin TR 
Slut For Punishment TR 
Spine, The T,TR 
Twin Cracks T 
Weasels Ripped My Flesh TR 

Gill's Buttress  


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Administrators: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jay Knower on May 14, 2002
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Description 

Gill's Buttress might be the best spot on the East Rampart, though nearby Brinton's Buttress might give it a run for it's money. Gill's Buttress holds a higher density of hard climbs than any other wall at DL. Classics 5.12's such as Acid Rock and Peyote Blues ascend the perfectly sheer, perfectly vertical south face of the buttress. Notorious thin and nightmarishly technical 5.13's such as Ice and Psilocybin also grace this wall.

But, of course, the centerpiece of the buttress is Gill's Nose, an aptly named route with a colorful history and just enough pro to beckon some brave souls into a lead. Just to it's left, Gill's Crack holds its own history, and might be one of the best 5.10's at the Lake. But, as with every route on the buttress, it has a bit of a reputation.

Getting There 

To find Gill's Buttress hike the CCC Trail to "T" in the trail at The Monster. Turn left at The Monster and continue up (northwest) until you reach a second "T". To get to the base of Gill's turn left and hike along the wall on the climber's trail. Gill's is about 80 feet west of the "T" in the trail at the Pedestal Buttress.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.7 miles from here

16 Total Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',7],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Gill's Buttress:
Boy Scout   5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a     Trad, TR, 80'   
The Spine   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
Fantasy   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     TR, 30'   
Gill's Crack   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Gill's Nose   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     TR   
Acid Rock   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Peyote Blues   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
In Search of the Lost Libido   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     TR, 35'   
Browse More Classics in Gill's Buttress

Featured Route For Gill's Buttress
Scott Stewert and Pete Cleveland showing their best Tai Chi moves at the start of Gill's Nose.

Gill's Nose 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Gill's Buttress
Gill climbed it first, but a foothold broke shortly thereafter. Locate the slab between Brinton's and Gill's Buttresses--the route climbs the prominent nose to the right of the slab. A classic Devil's Lake hard route. At the crux, the original line goes left to a big flat jug and clocks in at 11b. However, the more direct finish (keeping your right hand on or near the corner) certainly requires an 11c effort. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in WI

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