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Gill's Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Cleveland Route TR 
Acid Rock TR 
Blood Alcohol TR 
Boy Scout T,TR 
Fantasy TR 
Gill's Cheek T,TR 
Gill's Crack T,TR 
Gill's Nose TR 
Ice TR 
In Search of the Lost Libido TR 
Peyote Blues TR 
Psilocybin TR 
Slut For Punishment TR 
Spine, The T,TR 
Twin Cracks T 
Weasels Ripped My Flesh TR 

Gill's Buttress Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 43.41362, -89.71287 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 52,440
Administrators: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jay Knower on May 14, 2002
Thanksgiving Day

51° | 29°

33° | 20°

35° | 21°

37° | 26°

39° | 31°

35° | 27°
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Gill's Buttress might be the best spot on the East Rampart, though nearby Brinton's Buttress might give it a run for it's money. Gill's Buttress holds a higher density of hard climbs than any other wall at DL. Classics 5.12's such as Acid Rock and Peyote Blues ascend the perfectly sheer, perfectly vertical south face of the buttress. Notorious thin and nightmarishly technical 5.13's such as Ice and Psilocybin also grace this wall.

But, of course, the centerpiece of the buttress is Gill's Nose, an aptly named route with a colorful history and just enough pro to beckon some brave souls into a lead. Just to it's left, Gill's Crack holds its own history, and might be one of the best 5.10's at the Lake. But, as with every route on the buttress, it has a bit of a reputation.

Getting There 

To find Gill's Buttress hike the CCC Trail to "T" in the trail at The Monster. Turn left at The Monster and continue up (northwest) until you reach a second "T". To get to the base of Gill's turn left and hike along the wall on the climber's trail. Gill's is about 80 feet west of the "T" in the trail at the Pedestal Buttress.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.7 miles from here

16 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Gill's Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Gill's Buttress:
Boy Scout   5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a     Trad, TR, 80'   
The Spine   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
Fantasy   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     TR, 30'   
Gill's Crack   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Gill's Nose   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     TR   
Slut For Punishment   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     TR   
Acid Rock   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Peyote Blues   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
In Search of the Lost Libido   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     TR, 35'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Gill's Buttress

Featured Route For Gill's Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: Pete Cleveland attempting Peyote Blues, 1982

Peyote Blues 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Gill's Buttress
Slightly more difficult than Acid Rock, Peyote Blues climbs the right side of the Gill's Nose arete. Starting on the huge block (as per Acid rock), climb left to the corner, slap the corner, and continue to the top. Unusual for a 5.12 at the Lake, Peyote has no crimps on it. Expect extreme body tension moves and large, generally bad holds. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in WI

Comments on Gill's Buttress Add Comment
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By Evan Marsh
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Aug 17, 2015
Safety Alert! There is a very active underground BEE HIVE on the right side of the climber's trail as you approach Gill's Buttress from the east. Be cautious, my friend was stung by one when we first got there.

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