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Old Easy
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Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

Type:  Trad, Boulder, 20'
Consensus:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
FA: Justin Edl, 2003
Page Views: 5,079
Submitted By: JNE on Sep 18, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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John Langston stacking his way over the lip. A pr...

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


This is a beautiful fifteen foot offwidth roof. Start inverted at the very far end of the cave and work your way out, stacking your way out to and over the lip, after which the crack thins all the way down to fingers. Find the way that fights you the least. This is a very elegant moving problem. One of the best problems in Vedauwoo, and one of the best offwidth problems anywhere.


This thing is way around the corner from MRC, baisically on the other side of the formation. To get there drive into Central and follow the signs to the "Beaver Pond" area or some other such name. Basically instead of turning left around the roundabout and heading down to the Gazeebo, continue straight and follow the road as it bends around, ending near the south east side of Old Easy. Park there by the bathroom. Looking up to the formation you will see a huge roof that faces south with some very large boulders under it. There is a thin aid seam splitting the left end of this roof and Desiderata is a couple hundred feet down from the wall, pretty much straigt in line with that seam. Desiderata generally faces west.


One pad for the lip is adequate.

Photos of Desiderata Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jay Anderson nearing the crux lip moves.
Jay Anderson nearing the crux lip moves.
Rock Climbing Photo: Desiderata is below this seam.
BETA PHOTO: Desiderata is below this seam.
Rock Climbing Photo: Love hand fist stacks!
Love hand fist stacks!
Rock Climbing Photo: Clay getting comfy - photo by Rob Joyce.
Clay getting comfy - photo by Rob Joyce.
Rock Climbing Photo: About to turn the lip.
About to turn the lip.

Comments on Desiderata Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 11, 2015
Oct 11, 2015

So a few years back someone removed a bunch of rock from under this boulder. At the same time, this boulder was getting lapped regularly, and I heard a bunch of rumors of me being the type of person who does not care about my fellow man nor woman. Retrospectively, this appears to me to be some poorly thought out and unsuccessful smear against me.

Please, climb on this thing at your own risk. The boulder rests on a slab, leaning on another boulder which is resting on a slab, and the overall angle of these boulders is very un-eternal, meaning they will eventually slide down, probably millimeters at a time. This is likely what caused this clean crack: every time it gets wet under these rocks, it contributes to making the place the rocks touch into kitty litter granite, much like the recently uncovered rock you see around Vedauwoo and other granite areas. As this happens, the rocks will slowly slide down the slab. The rock which used to be under there would have acted as a safety net, but that is gone now, thanks to the efforts of someone other than myself.

I genuinely worry about someone being crushed by this thing now. Please, please, please, please, please, please climb at your own risk, especially on this boulder. Better yet, avoid it altogether :)
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Aug 20, 2007

A beautiful, aesthetic line, and not as hard as the .12d rating in the guide. The only drawback is how close to the ground it is. No free hanging off the feet for a rest before the crux, your head would hit the ground.
Aug 20, 2007

Glad you liked the line Will. Definitely not 12+. The rating on this site is for stacking over the lip. The problem is much easier if you undercling into a fist jam, probably 11- that way. Stacking is really fun due to the angle of the crack, very elegant and kinesthetic. To me it felt about as hard as Squat that way.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Aug 21, 2007

It's a great problem Justin. I liked it so much I went to it 3 times over my 2 week trip and did the crux 3 different ways: hand/fist stack to get the knee up high then a long reach into a wide cup, crimping up the right edge to a long reach to a fist, and bumping up stacks until it goes cupped.

Doing this and Spinning the Wind (or Spin to Win, seems like diffrent names everywhere I look) were alot of fun and validation of the stuff I put up in the Valley this spring. You should definitely check out Cedar Eater if you get to Yosemite, it's like a longer, harder, more varied version of Desiderata...and drop me a line if you're headed out there I'll give you the scoop on the two roof OW problems I estalished near Camp 4. One is very reminscent of Spin/Win.
Aug 25, 2007

I will definitely get in touch with you the next time I am headed out to Yosemite, Will. I really want to check out The Cedar Eater, sounds really cool.
Aug 6, 2008

By strappoh
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 12, 2009

Wow! I recall seeing this spilit boulder many years ago, but never even considered climbing it like a roof. Bravo!
By molony
Aug 4, 2009

Awesome, plain and simple.
By Nickerson
Sep 18, 2011

Though the lip is definitely the crux, the first fifteen feet are pure inverted bliss.
By Patrick Kingsbury
Oct 11, 2015

I'd suggest using mortar, but your craftsmanship on the "Equilibrium" sucks.
Oct 11, 2015

Patrick Kingsbury wrote:

"I'd suggest using mortar, but your craftsmanship on the "Equilibrium" sucks. "

Solid gaslighting, Patrick!

Are you taking at least partial credit for the poorly attempted character smear here then? The poorly, or unsolidly attempted gaslighting, to be clear?

Which is to ask, are you one of the upstanding citizens who thinks it would be funny or otherwise satisfying to see someone seriously maimed or killed by this boulder? If so, extra solid....

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