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Lost Horse Wall - Right Side
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Altitude Sickness T 
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Lost and Found T 
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Swift, The T 
Wilson Regular Route T 

Dappled Mare 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: John Long, Richard Harrison, and Rick Accomazzo, January 1973
Page Views: 18,529
Submitted By: Mark J. Nelson on Oct 31, 2002

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Celebrating the "feats of strength" port...

Description 

Approach: walk up the wash below the Lost Horse Wall. Your landmark for finding this route is the traverse down and left along a horizontal from the top of P2 into P3; look for this about halfway down the ledge that defines the right side of the wall. At the left edge of this traverse, there is an obvious, left-facing dihedral. Scramble up boulders to reach the approach pitch.

Photo opportunity: as the leader gets into the dihedral at the start of P3, they end up parallel with and 15 feet left of the belay stance. It's pretty easy for them to lean back and smile for the camera.

Short leader advantage: the dihedral in P3 is slightly less awkward for a shorter climber.

P1: 5.6-: Start from boulders roughly below where the crack starts from the ledge. Work up and left across easy terrain to gain the ledge, then traverse right to the base of the crack. Straightforward gear anchor.

P2: 5.8: Work straight up the obvious crack system. You may find yourself using both cracks towards the bottom, but before long you'll be entirely in the left crack. You can't really miss the three-bolt anchor at the top of this pitch.

P3: 5.8: Take the obvious, 15-foot traverse down and left into the base of the dihedral. Enjoy the fabulous fingers and plentiful protection throughout the dihedral, continue up either crack above until the angle of the wall tapers off. You'll end up with a gear anchor a short distance from the top of the wall.

P4: 5.8-: You can probably choose any of several options to exit this climb. I opted for a short, obvious, somewhat-right-facing crack above a low-angle slab. As you exit, you'll want to move right to avoid the Pancake Prickly Pear growing in the top of the crack. Gear anchor beneath a blade of rock about 15 feet from the edge of the cliff.

Protection 

Standard rack. This climb protects beautifully. If you choose the right of two cracks above the dihedral on P3, there will be a runout towards the top of the pitch when the crack runs out.


Photos of Dappled Mare Slideshow Add Photo
"Dappled Mare". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Dappled Mare". Photo by Blitzo.
Ron Roach follows up on 'Dappled Mare' (5.8) on th...
Ron Roach follows up on 'Dappled Mare' (5.8) on th...
High five at the top of pitch one.
High five at the top of pitch one.
passing time on the first belay, waiting for a slo...
passing time on the first belay, waiting for a slo...
approaching Lost Horse
approaching Lost Horse
R. Shore on the traverse at the start of the secon...
R. Shore on the traverse at the start of the secon...
Dappled Mare
BETA PHOTO: Dappled Mare
Hanging out at the bolted belay.
Hanging out at the bolted belay.
pitch 1 of Dappled Mare
pitch 1 of Dappled Mare
one more summit shot!
one more summit shot!
J approaching P2
J approaching P2
Jared on the traverse.
Jared on the traverse.
Dappled Mare P2
Dappled Mare P2

Comments on Dappled Mare Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 4, 2014
By Murf
Nov 6, 2002

Never done this in three pitches, usually go right for the bolts. Also, gotta choose, screw yourself or screw the second. Traversing down quite aways and then over, rope drag or can the second handle it?
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 6, 2003

I read recently on rec.climbing that a flake had come off on Dappled Mare. Is this true? Is it still a 5.8 climb? Thanks. Carol (cychung555@yahoo.com)
By Murf
Mar 6, 2003

Carol,

I'm going to assume you've been reading the newsgroup rec.climbing. You've been bitten by the biggest troll there, Jeff Batten. Dappled Mare is still there, no worries. It's best to always ignore posting concerning bolting of Double Cross as well.
By Murf
Mar 6, 2003

Whoops, Carol says right out she read it on rec.climbing, my ass-umption wasn't necessary.
By Brian Reynolds
Mar 6, 2003

Uh ... yeah. Once upon a time (not very long ago), I got suckered by one of those Double Cross bolt threads ... oops.
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Mar 21, 2003

Both protection bolts were replaced on Edgar Rice Burros (next route right of Dappled Mare) January 2003.
By The Gray Tradster
May 12, 2003

On the traverse pitch, don't place any pro until you start back up the crack and get about level with the belay, (or farther if nerves allow) Use a long sling on the first couple of pieces and the drag won't be bad.
By Woody Stark
May 25, 2003

I would like to second the advice about climbing high in the crack after the traverse. I've climb the route numerous times. I climb quite high, place pro with two slings to make sure there's no drag.
By Kevin Currigan
From: Lakewood
Feb 11, 2004

We actually moved the belay to the bottom of the crack-not advised. You end up in an uncomfortable postition with a so-so belay. The crack flares in the back and makes good cam placement tough. Next time I'll have to try the advice above.
By Drederek
Apr 9, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Found nuts and hexes more useful than cams on this excellent climb. Put in one cam about halfway down the traverse (with a long draw) and the next piece almost as high as the belay in the dihedral (with a sling). 3 bomber hexes later setup a belay at the top of the dihedral at an OK stance (where you can go left or straight up). Had no problem with drag and left a nice longish pitch to finish. We kept waiting for a 5.8 move but we did not think we ever did one.
By Dr. Evil
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 18, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This route can easily be climbed in two pitches with a 60-meter rope.

To avoid rope drag, I chose to set the first belay after the traverse. Done this way the first pitch is about 55m. There is a small stance that is reasonably comfortable for one person at the end of the traverse. Using this belay position means that the second has to downclimb to the anchor, so it is a probably a good idea to protect the traverse well. The crack eats gear, so this is easy to do.

The second pitch then goes up the left-arching crack, then up the face and cracks to the top of the wall. The second pitch is about 50 m.
By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Apr 25, 2007
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

At the start of P3, I put in two spread out pieces during the downward traverse with single length slings. When starting up but still below the belay, I put in another piece with a double length sling. Rope drag was not an issue even though I led to the end of the 60 meter rope, combining P3 and P4. Unless you only have maybe sport quickdraws or are short-clipping the pro, I'm thinking that protecting the traverse doesn't mean a lot of rope drag later (your mileage may vary).
By Lynn S
Dec 30, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Did this in two pitches with my kids, but it would have been better as follows.

Pitch 1 - go up to the bolts, start left of the yucca just off the big boulder, with long runners on pro there is not much rope drag, maybe 160 foot pitch.

Pitch 2 - do the downward traverse, climb the left leaning crack and find the most comfortable stance you can above that section. This keeps decent visual/verbal communication with the follower(s) in case they have trouble. Not a great stance but you won't be there that long. Roughly 80 feet total and puts you left and not far above the bolted stance. Again that is helpful if it is windy and you want to communicate with the second, etc..

Pitch 3 - climb pretty easy and fun rock up to nice stance below some chickenheads. Walk off right (east) past a yucca and pick your way down through the boulders. 100 feet
By Dave Daly
From: Del Mar, CA
Feb 23, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Done this in 2 pitches with 60m rope (last remaining bit is 4th/low 5th). As for the traverse, protect the second midway then place a piece (with long runner) about the same height as the belay as you head up the left facing corner. Hardly got any rope drag and my second felt well protected. I felt the second pitch was just as fun as the first. Folks who'd rather go 'Roan's Way' (did it already) don't know what they are missing! Good stuff!
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Sep 26, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The traverse at the start of P2 in particular is very good - along with the crack above, not sure why this wouldn't be classic, but then again I like traverses.
By jeffozozo
From: santa clara, utah
Oct 22, 2009

How do you descend?
By Cory
From: Boise, ID
Nov 9, 2009

Fantastic climb! There are great nut placements on all pitches. I've now done it with both finishes, and I agree with Dave Daly that the standard finish is more fun(although Roan's Way was fun too). That diagonal crack/dihedral after the traverse is just so sweet! I waited until I was even with the belay to place my first piece, which I slung with a double length sling and Rope drag was not an issue.

The descent is an easy scramble off to climber's right.
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Dec 14, 2009

Lost Horse moderate classic. Can be done in two pitches with a 70m rope, or a bit of creativity with a 60.
By Catherine Conner
From: Phoenix, AZ
Dec 20, 2009
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Great route, no stress. 2 pitches. Very fun!
By attila
Feb 26, 2010

Tip for pitch 3 leaders; load your gear on the left side of your harness for easier access while going up the crack after the traverse. Our guidebook indicated this is a 3 pitch route, but we ended up doing 4 pitches cuz I ran out of draws with about 40 feet to go.
By Rockwood
From: West Jordan
Mar 22, 2010

We found ourselves all alone on this route all day so we did it twice. Both times on P1 we started way over to the right so we basically went directly strait up instead over curving to the right. It was fun and seemed to fit with the rest of the climb. Doing it twice in a row was great since you don't have to choose between the 2 short cracks in the middle, we did them both. First time we ended with Roan Way and the second time did the normal route but set the belay after the traverse. The down climb was also tons faster the second time. Watch for loose boulders though, one rolled on me and almost pinned my legs. I escaped with only major abrasions. Also there's a bees nest on the downclimb. Watch out or bring your epi pen.
By UpRope
Nov 14, 2010

We belayed at the bolts and had no problem with rope drag,I intuitively knew to go about 6 ft up the crack before putting in a piece.All the protection at the traverse ,and immediately after, I extended with long slings.
I love this route and it has all the makings of a classic JT climb.
By BrendanC
From: Sherman oaks, ca
May 13, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Classic. We did it in two pitches with a 60
P1: 5.8. Getting to the bolts in one pitch is easily done, just keep your rope running straight-ish up to the ramp below the main crack. From there 80+ feet of excellent, varied climbing leads to the bolts.
P2: 5.8. Protected the traverse with one piece, then a doubled runner on the first piece in the dihedral even with the belay. As long as the belayer keeps it slightly loose rope drag is not a big issue. The dihedral pitch is fantastic, just remember to look over your left shoulder for a sick view. Once out of the dihedral, I went straight up (last pitch or Bird on a Wire, I think). This is a bit run out in spots and felt 5.8ish and a tad spicy. The traditional line goes a bit more left into a more continuous crack system with better pro, but you probably want to break this pitch in two if not taking the direct line. I used every inch of our 60 going straight up which finishes by pulling an easy roof with good pro and 15 more feet of fun 5.8 jams.
.75 to 1.5" for an anchor in the summit block.
NOTE: This route eats gear in the .5 to 1.5 range so bring plenty of those.
By Chad_N
From: Chattanooga TN
Jan 3, 2013

Nuts, tri cams and hexes (all small to med) will place better than cams on this one.
By Bernard Van De Walle
Feb 20, 2013

We did it with super short first pitch to the ramp.
Second pitch to the bolted belay
Last pitch to the end.
Can be done in 2 pitch if you link the super short first one with the second one
By sdrockstar81
From: el cajon, CA
Mar 30, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Climbed this yesterday... Only used 2 cams the rest were hexes, nuts, and tri-cams medium/small sizes. Took the Roan variation finish which was fun and not as horrible as everyone says, a little spicy in a couple spots but not terrible.

60m rope was needed for Roan finish
used either a .5 or .75 about 10ft off of the bolted belay on pitch 2

I think I took another variation on Roan way at the very top I took the crack on the right instead of finishing straight up. fun finish still 5.8
By Alex Peterson
From: Kamas, Utah
Apr 28, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

We did this a two pitch with a 60. First pitch go straight for the bolts, you can go easy on the pro down low and then stitch it up as needed up to the bolts. But if you keep your line straight, it will reach. Second pitch, long sling the traverse and finish about ten feet shy of the top, just under a large agave plant. Solid anchor build there and it is an easy 5.0 climb the last ten feet.
By Brian Chastain
Dec 23, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

So after turning away from this route countless times we finally got up early and arrived to the parking lot FIRST!

Found the climbing pretty easy. Went via approach pitch, to belay bolts and then to the top. Finished on Bird on a Wire which probably made it more fun but did increased rope drag.

I cannot see how it could be PG13 unless you did the finish of Bird on a Wire as the pro is a little less but climbing isn't too tough.

I would do it again
By Jason Kim
From: Encinitas, CA
Mar 4, 2014

1st pitch felt like 5.4, super relaxed and several options to approach the ledge. 2nd pitch protects great and felt 5.7-ish to me, nuts worked great and I didn't even reach for a cam (gasp!). 3rd pitch is definitely the money pitch, whether you lead or follow. The downward traverse, if you take it, is fun and different. 4 pitch, if you do it, is easy and over in 2 minutes. All sorts of anchor options up top, I wedged myself behind a yucca and slung the rope around a little horn as a backup.