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Conspiracy of Ravens
5.10c/d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 4 from 2
votes
Routes in Lost Horse Wall - Right Side
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Altitude Sickness T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Armor Plated Unicorn T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bird on a Wire T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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China Plates T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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City Slickers T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Conspiracy of Ravens T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Dappled Mare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gossamer Wings T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hairline Fracture T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Lost and Found T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mare's Tail T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Roan Way T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Swift, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wilson Regular Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Unknown, documented and establish by Andy Funaro with Ed Golem, Will Buckman |
| Page Views: | 474 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | climber andy on Nov 24, 2022 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Conspiracy of Ravens was established in November of 2021. The climb was envisioned by a local many years before this publication. They have decided against claiming the FA because parts of the line have been accessed historically.
After Conspiracy of Ravens was established, but not yet published, some information about that side of Lost Horse wall started to develop on this platform. The topo shows what is believed to be the best, most accurate information to distinguish the established routes on Lost Horse right.
Pitch 1
Start at the dead Nolina. Go up to the very featured left facing corner. Then step left to a bolted anchor 5.6pg
Pitch 2
Go up from the bolted anchor with a hard face move into a wide crack to a big ledge, with an anchor on the large boulder. 5.9pg13
Pitch 3
The money pitch! Clamber on up to the top of the boulder. Your first piece is in a horizontal crack that protects the traverse going right (very committing). Continue up after the traverse to a lay back to access the slab. There you will find one bolt to protect the slab. After clipping the bolt proceed up and right to a left facing wide dihedral. This is where the business begins and can feel a little runout. After pulling the strenuous move follow the right facing dihedral to finish. The last part is the crux of Gossamer Wings. You will find the last bolted anchor there. 5.10c/d
Descent: Repel the route back to the ground with one 60m rope. Or walk off via the original Lost Horse descent to the right.
Location
Conspiracy of Ravens begins at the original Gossamer wings which is now being called the “new” start of GWings; however it does not follow the same line at the top of pitch one. GWings goes right and Conspiracy of Ravens goes left. See attached photograph to locate the pin that was put in for GWings. These two routes will flirt with one other again at the top of the wall. It is located on the right side of Lost Horse wall, but by the leftmost climbs of the MP designated section.
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