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Armor Plated Unicorn
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 1 from 6
votes
Routes in Lost Horse Wall - Right Side
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Altitude Sickness T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Armor Plated Unicorn T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bird on a Wire T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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China Plates T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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City Slickers T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Conspiracy of Ravens T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Dappled Mare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gossamer Wings T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hairline Fracture T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Lost and Found T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mare's Tail T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Roan Way T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Swift, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wilson Regular Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
| Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m) |
| GPS: | 34.02166, -116.1788 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 719 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Sean on Mar 19, 2022 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Two long pitches of enjoyable climbing up the middle section of the Lost Horse Wall.
P1 170' 5.7: Up the variational P1 of Gossamer Wings (not the crack system that leads up to its bolted anchor but the adjacent one to climber's left). Instead of stepping right to belay beneath the left underside of the giant midway block, continue up and left to belay on a ledge at the bottom of the Jenga stack of giant patina blocks, located above a yucca and just left of a small tree.
P2 180' 5.7: Up the Jenga stack of patina blocks (variation 1). More solid than they look from the ground, with loose parts about but able to pick way up via solid rock. After about 20 ft, step left to pull up and over an overhang onto another stretch of nice patinas. As that levels off, follow a right-slanting featured cleft upward, and then cut diagonally along a second left-slanting crack that soon appears, to follow to the top.
Variation 2: Climb the face to the right of the Jenga blocks.
Rap down Gossamer Wings with a 60m rope, or scramble across the top of the formation to climber's right to connect to the familiar walk-off for The Swift, etc.
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