Type: Trad, 350 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Bob Gaines and Erik Kramer-Webb, May 2003
Page Views: 1,015 total · 9/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Jan 1, 2010
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

Start at a fixed rurp at the far right side of the wall, about 50 feet right of Headbanger's Ball.

Pitch 1: Face climb up and left past a bolt (5.9+), then follow a short, vertical crack to an easier slab past 2 bolts, then jam the obvious crack that splits a roof (5.11b/c), belay about 20 feet higher at a ledge. The 5.11 roof crack can be avoided by a 5.7 variation that tackles the overhang about 15 feet to the right.

Pitch 2: Climb a classic, splitter finger and thin hands crack (5.6) for about 50 feet up to a small ledge.

Pitch 3: Up a delicate friction slab past 2 bolts (5.10a/b), then zigzag right, then back left on ramps, then climb staight up a very thin and steeper slab (11b/c) past 3 bolts, finishing the pitch with an easy, juggy roof. Belay 20 feet higher.

Pitch 4: Some class 4 takes you to the top of the formation.

Protection

To 2.5 inches; extra CDs from .4 to 1 inch.

Photos

Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11b/c
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11b/c
This route will be great when it cleans up a bit more. I felt that the roof crack was just as hard as the slab above. Dec 1, 2014
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Hehe Nelson, nice tick and added to my "to do" list. Although, your comment had me snickering, " This route will be great when it cleans up a bit more". Considering it's in the "pre-tween years already. Dec 1, 2014