Lost and Found
5.11b/c YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
| Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 34.02166, -116.1788 |
| FA: | Bob Gaines and Erik Kramer-Webb, May 2003 |
| Page Views: | 2,251 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Bob Gaines on Jan 1, 2010 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Start at a fixed RURP at the far right side of the wall, about 50 feet right of Headbanger's Ball.
Pitch 1: Face climb up and left past a bolt (5.9+), then follow a short, vertical crack to an easier slab past 2 bolts, then jam the obvious crack that splits a roof (5.11b/c), belay about 20 feet higher at a ledge. The 5.11 roof crack can be avoided by a 5.7 variation that tackles the overhang about 15 feet to the right.
Pitch 2: Climb a classic, splitter finger and thin hands crack (5.6) for about 50 feet up to a small ledge.
Pitch 3: Up a delicate friction slab past 2 bolts (5.10a/b), then zigzag right, then back left on ramps, then climb straight up a very thin and steeper slab (11b/c) past 3 bolts, finishing the pitch with an easy, juggy roof. Belay 20 feet higher.
Pitch 4: Some class 4 takes you to the top of the formation.



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