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Routes in Lost Horse Wall - Right Side

Altitude Sickness T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bird on a Wire T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
City Slickers T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dappled Mare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hairline Fracture T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Lost and Found T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mare's Tail T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roan Way T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Swift, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wilson Regular Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Bob Gaines and Erik Kramer-Webb, May 2003
Page Views: 928 total · 9/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Jan 1, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Start at a fixed rurp at the far right side of the wall, about 50 feet right of Headbanger's Ball.

Pitch 1: Face climb up and left past a bolt (5.9+), then follow a short, vertical crack to an easier slab past 2 bolts, then jam the obvious crack that splits a roof (5.11b/c), belay about 20 feet higher at a ledge. The 5.11 roof crack can be avoided by a 5.7 variation that tackles the overhang about 15 feet to the right.

Pitch 2: Climb a classic, splitter finger and thin hands crack (5.6) for about 50 feet up to a small ledge.

Pitch 3: Up a delicate friction slab past 2 bolts (5.10a/b), then zigzag right, then back left on ramps, then climb staight up a very thin and steeper slab (11b/c) past 3 bolts, finishing the pitch with an easy, juggy roof. Belay 20 feet higher.

Pitch 4: Some class 4 takes you to the top of the formation.


To 2.5 inches; extra CDs from .4 to 1 inch.


susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Hehe Nelson, nice tick and added to my "to do" list. Although, your comment had me snickering, " This route will be great when it cleans up a bit more". Considering it's in the "pre-tween years already. Dec 1, 2014
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
This route will be great when it cleans up a bit more. I felt that the roof crack was just as hard as the slab above. Dec 1, 2014