All Locations > California > Joshua Tree Natio… > Lost Horse Area > Lost Horse Wall > Lost Horse Wall - Right Side
Avg: 2.6 from 25 votes
Routes in Lost Horse Wall - Right Side
|Altitude Sickness T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Bird on a Wire T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|City Slickers T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Dappled Mare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Hairline Fracture T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Lost and Found T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Mare's Tail T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Roan Way T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Swift, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Wilson Regular Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R|
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Paul Neal & Charlie Saylan, December 1976|
|Page Views:||2,163 total, 11/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Mar 21, 2002|
|Admins:||C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionGo to the South End of Lost Horse Wall, to the fine steep and solid section, as for Dappled Mare.
P1: (5.7, 70') Climb P1 of dappled Mare to the good ledge, and belay, perhaps 70' off of the ground.
P2: (Cl 3, 60) Move the belay well to the right, perhaps 50' to the end of the ledge and then up a slight ramp to the next ledge up and right. Set a belay here and get ready for the next pitch.
P3-4: (5.9+, 150-230') This pitch is the cool pitch, and pretty enervating for 5.9. Depending on your exact finish you may need a 70M rope or to break the pitch up. I did this route as a 70M lead to near the true summit of the wall and had hellish drag. I recommend going in 2 pitches or aiming to stop at the shoulder of the wall. Climb up a crack system that goes through the roof up above and continue along a curing crack with jams from finger sized to fist. If you will break up the pitch, it is best to do this after perhaps 60' or so, before the climb diagonals up and left over a blank face. Continue climbing to a spot where a 1" crack ends (1" TCU or pink tricam is good) and there are a few flaring holds traversing up and right to the start of another thin crack (small nuts). This section is the crux and will feel mildly runout, but will not produce a fall of severe consequence unless you place bad gear. After the crux, you climb up and right in the crack system to the shoulder of the rock. If you've not had enough, you can go up the crumbling shoulder slab to the true summit, but this is poor rock, runout, and a shave hard.