China Plates

P1 100’ 5.5: Start up a vertical hand crack approx 50 ft to climber's right of the start for Wilson Regular Route (as drawn in JT West), a few steps left of a big tree, near the lower left alternative start for Altitude Sickness.  Slant right as that crack system becomes wide but with ample incuts up the right face.  Continue up long vertical crack to the first smaller alcove of two. The first, smaller alcove makes the pitch 100 feet long. Belaying higher on the bigger alcove ledge would make for a much sharper P2 turn to the patina arete.

P2 100' 5.6: Abandon the main crack to head up and left across featured terrain laced with numerous cracks to get up to a long horizontal ledge.  Go all the way left to the inviting patina plates. Exciting exposure to swing out onto the slightly overhanging patinas, with solid jugs galore, to go up their right side and onto a spacious ledge.

P3 140' 5.7: Scamper up bulge blocks to another patina face, to go up its right subtle arete, for a brief bit of 5.7. Near the top of that, veer left to follow an easy gap shaped like a rampy chute to the summit.  OR step rightward across the spacious belay ledge and opt to slant right up the easy low angle terrain, to coincide with the most common finish for Wilson Regular Route.

Rap via the Gossamer Wings bolted anchors with a 70m rope.  Or descend by going to climber's right, to first scramble over the high summit to immediate right and toward its back, downclimb its right far side, then traverse across slopy, easy terrain to the top outs of The Swift, Bird on a Wire, and Dappled Mare, and then proceed to walk off as for those routes.

This route is located between Wilson Regular Route (to cross that at beginning of P3) and Altitude Sickness.

Double rack to 2" plus one 3" cam, gear anchors.