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Cosumnes River Gorge
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Buck's Bar Dome 
Gutenberger Wall 
Struggler Cliff 
Ten-Minute Cliff 

Cosumnes River Gorge 


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Lat, Long: 38.6524, -120.7066 Map
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Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on May 27, 2003

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Bucks Bar Dome, from across the valley on Gutenber...

Description 

Nestled into the Western Sierra near the town of Placerville, youwill find this granite gem. Climbing is quite varied, from shortbouldering, sport, and multipitch traditional lines.

Most of the granite in the area has been washed by water overmany mnay years, and now is quite smooth. We're not talkingyosemite glass, so friction routes are still doable.

Boasting several hundred existing routes on many different rocks,there are many many days of climbing for people of all abilities. This is an excellent place to set your first pro, and also agreat place for the development of new routes.

There are no access fees for climbing in Consumnes River Gorge.

Decents are as varied as the climbing.


Getting There 

From Hwy 50, exit on Missouri Flats (Right). Take that a few miles until you find a T-intersection with Pleasant Valley Rd and take that to Bucks Bar. If you are unfamiliar with the area the turnout for parking is just before Buck's Bar Cir., so if you see Bucks Bar Circle road then you just passed the spot.

Once out of the car, head off the right side of the road in the middle of the guard rail. There is a wide trail that is paved for the first few hundred feet. The approach is downhill and takes about 10 minutes.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cosumnes River Gorge:
Amazing Chimney   5.6     TR, 1 pitch, 45 feet   Buck's Bar Dome
Beginner's Cracks   5.6     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet   Buck's Bar Dome
Magic Beans   5.8-     Trad, 50 feet   Buck's Bar Dome
Live and Learn   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 30 feet   Buck's Bar Dome
Chamberlin's Chimney   5.8     TR, 30 feet   Buck's Bar Dome
Gutenberger's Wall   5.8     Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet   Gutenberger Wall
Unconquerable   5.8     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet   Buck's Bar Dome
Test Piece   5.8     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet   Buck's Bar Dome
Struggler   5.9     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 20 feet   Struggler Cliff
Mangler   5.9     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet   Buck's Bar Dome
Grandpappy   5.9 R     Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II   Gutenberger Wall
Lichen Us   5.9     Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet   Gutenberger Wall
Right Up the Line   5.9     Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet   Gutenberger Wall
Dinkum   5.9     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Buck's Bar Dome
Unconquerable-Tunnel Through   5.10a/b     Trad, 40 feet   Buck's Bar Dome
Fly or Die   5.10     TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Buck's Bar Dome
Adhesion   5.10c     TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet   Buck's Bar Dome
Fingerprint   5.12b     TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet   Buck's Bar Dome
Ten Minute Crack   5.12     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet   Ten-Minute Cliff
Browse More Classics in Cosumnes River Gorge

Featured Route For Cosumnes River Gorge
Sweet Arete Climbing!

Fingerprint 5.12b  CA : Sierra Foothills North : ... : Buck's Bar Dome
This route ascends the very slightly featured face and arete just to the left of Unconquerable. Climb up the face or arete using one of many approaches to an interesting traverse or direct move that's going to be dynamic unless you're really in tune with your balance. Most of the route is less than vertical, though the tougher beginning section both vertical, and void of good foot placements.This route is tough for about 8 feet, from about 4 feet off the ground until about 12 feet, and then a ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


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By Anonymous Coward
Mar 2, 2005

I've climbed here quite a bit. It's cool for beginners who enjoy toproping, most anchors can be walked up to. If you sport there's only 3 routes a 10a, 10c, and a 9, they're ok but not great. a near by river makes for good swimming in the summer time.

By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Dec 7, 2012

For those that prefer pretty pictures over reading, here's how to get there: Map

Just drag the "A" icon to where you want to start from.

By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 22, 2013

The guidebook for Cosumnes is "Rock Climbs of Placerville, CA" by William H. Cottrell. I picked my copy up from Granite Arch in Rancho Cordova.

By McStupid
23 hours ago

This place is a lot of fun, but I wouldn't really recommend camping right around the crag. This weekend there was a large pile of freshly broken glass along the shoulder where everyone parks. No problem during the day but I didn't want to leave my car there over night. Also, there isn't a lot of level ground in the area and you would have to keep a pretty low profile. Definitely some national forest camping within 10 miles or so.