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Cosumnes River Gorge

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Buck's Bar Dome 
Granite Cove 
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Cosumnes River Gorge 

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Location: 38.6524, -120.7066 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on May 27, 2003
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Bucks Bar Dome, from across the valley on Gutenber...


Nestled into the Western Sierra near the town of Placerville, youwill find this granite gem. Climbing is quite varied, from shortbouldering, sport, and multipitch traditional lines.

Most of the granite in the area has been washed by water overmany mnay years, and now is quite smooth. We're not talkingyosemite glass, so friction routes are still doable.

Boasting several hundred existing routes on many different rocks,there are many many days of climbing for people of all abilities. This is an excellent place to set your first pro, and also agreat place for the development of new routes.

There are no access fees for climbing in Consumnes River Gorge.

Decents are as varied as the climbing.

Getting There 

From Hwy 50, exit on Missouri Flats (Right). Take that a few miles until you find a T-intersection with Pleasant Valley Rd and take that to Bucks Bar. If you are unfamiliar with the area the turnout for parking is just before Buck's Bar Cir., so if you see Bucks Bar Circle road then you just passed the spot.

Once out of the car, head off the right side of the road in the middle of the guard rail. There is a wide trail that is paved for the first few hundred feet. The approach is downhill and takes about 10 minutes.

60 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',35],['1 Star',12],['Bomb',1]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cosumnes River Gorge:
Amazing Chimney   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     TR, 1 pitch, 45'   Buck's Bar Dome
Beginner's Cracks   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Buck's Bar Dome
The Easy Way Up   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Gutenberger Wall
Magic Beans   5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c     Trad, 50'   Buck's Bar Dome
Live and Learn   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   Buck's Bar Dome
Gutenberger's Wall   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Gutenberger Wall
Chamberlin's Chimney   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     TR, 30'   Buck's Bar Dome
Squeeze Cheeze   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Buck's Bar Dome
Test Piece   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Buck's Bar Dome
Unconquerable   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Buck's Bar Dome
Drastical   5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c     Trad, 30'   Buck's Bar Dome
Lichen Us   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Gutenberger Wall
Gardens of Babylon   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Ten-Minute Cliff
Bat Roof   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Buck's Bar Dome
Dinkum   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Buck's Bar Dome
Mangler   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Buck's Bar Dome
Fly or Die   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Buck's Bar Dome
Adhesion   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Buck's Bar Dome
Fingerprint   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Buck's Bar Dome
Ten Minute Crack   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Ten-Minute Cliff
Browse More Classics in Cosumnes River Gorge

Featured Route For Cosumnes River Gorge
Grandpappy 5.9 R is on the left side of the dome.

Grandpappy 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a CA : Sacramento Valley/Foothills : ... : Gutenberger Wall
A runout adventure on a pretty section of stone. Rumor has it that the old 1/4" bolts are to be replaced and some bolts added to make this a nicer route. There were only three bolts on the original 50m crux, so, yes, please do. From the "Grand Central Belay Station" (see Will Cottrell's Rock Climbs of Placerville, CA) proceed up and left across the central crack system to the second belay of Lichen Us. Keep proceeding up and left (5.5 or 5.6, no pro) to the belay at the base of a big bulge. T...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

News and Events For Cosumnes River Gorge
Photos of Cosumnes River Gorge Slideshow Add Photo
A view of Gutenberger Wall from further upstream. This shows a great view of the angle of most of the climbs on the dome.
A view of Gutenberger Wall from further upstream. ...
Upstream from the climbing area. A lot of sick looking areas.
Upstream from the climbing area. A lot of sick loo...
not sure the route
not sure the route
Bat Roof (Great Chimney)
Bat Roof (Great Chimney)
Comments on Cosumnes River Gorge Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 2, 2005

I've climbed here quite a bit. It's cool for beginners who enjoy toproping, most anchors can be walked up to. If you sport there's only 3 routes a 10a, 10c, and a 9, they're ok but not great. a near by river makes for good swimming in the summer time.

By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Dec 7, 2012

For those that prefer pretty pictures over reading, here's how to get there: Map

Just drag the "A" icon to where you want to start from.

By Justin Johnsen
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 22, 2013

The guidebook for Cosumnes is "Rock Climbs of Placerville, CA" by William H. Cottrell. I picked my copy up from Granite Arch in Rancho Cordova.

By McStupid
May 20, 2013

This place is a lot of fun, but I wouldn't really recommend camping right around the crag. This weekend there was a large pile of freshly broken glass along the shoulder where everyone parks. No problem during the day but I didn't want to leave my car there over night. Also, there isn't a lot of level ground in the area and you would have to keep a pretty low profile. Definitely some national forest camping within 10 miles or so.