Cosumnes River Gorge Rock Climbing
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|Location: ||38.6524, -120.7066 View Map Incorrect?
|Page Views: ||42,158|
|Administrators: ||Aron Quiter, John Robinson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)|
|Submitted By: ||Aron Quiter on May 27, 2003|
Upstream from the climbing area. A lot of sick loo...
Nestled into the western Sierra near the town of Placerville, you will find this granite gem. Climbing is quite varied, from short bouldering, sport, and multipitch traditional lines. Most of these are topropeable short lines, physical for their grades.
Most of the granite in the area has been washed by water over many many years, and now is quite smooth. We're not talking Yosemite glass, so friction routes are still doable.
Boasting several hundred existing routes on many different rocks, there are many many days of climbing for people of all abilities. This is an excellent place to set your first pro, and also a great place for the development of new routes.
There are no access fees for climbing in Cosumnes River Gorge. While the climbing areas are on privately owned land, the owner has permitted climbing access. A 1979 trip report by Bob Branscomb in the American Alpine Journal mentioned that the owner requests that no campfires be lit, so be a cool guest and respect this .
Descents are as varied as the climbing.
From Hwy 50, exit on Missouri Flats (Right). Take that a few miles until you find a T-intersection with Pleasant Valley Rd and take that to Bucks Bar. If you are unfamiliar with the area the turnout for parking is just before Buck's Bar Cir., so if you see Bucks Bar Circle road then you just passed the spot.
Once out of the car, head off the right side of the road in the middle of the guard rail. There is a wide trail that is paved for the first few hundred feet. The approach is downhill and takes about 10 minutes to the main climbing areas.
Weather station 5.8 miles from here
68 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',42],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in Cosumnes River Gorge
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Cosumnes River Gorge
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Cosumnes River Gorge:
Featured Route For Cosumnes River Gorge
Ten Minute Crack 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b CA
: Tahoe Vicinity
: ... : Ten-Minute Cliff
Located right in the middle of the 10 Minute Cliff is the cliff's namesake Ten Minute Crack. Apparently it was so named because of the time it took to hammer pitons into the narrow crack. Now these piton scars are the 'quality' finger holds you'll be using as you struggle you way up it. While its a short climb, its still excellent and teaches the 5.12 crack novice (me) a thing or two about crack climbing....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
BETA PHOTO: A view of Gutenberger Wall from further upstream. ...
BETA PHOTO: Bucks Bar Dome, from across the valley on Gutenber...
Cosumnes River Gorge panorama from the Gutenberger...
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 2, 2005
I've climbed here quite a bit. It's cool for beginners who enjoy toproping, most anchors can be walked up to. If you sport there's only 3 routes a 10a, 10c, and a 9, they're ok but not great. a near by river makes for good swimming in the summer time.
By Mark P Thomas
Dec 7, 2012
For those that prefer pretty pictures over reading, here's how to get there: Map
Just drag the "A" icon to where you want to start from.
May 20, 2013
This place is a lot of fun, but I wouldn't really recommend camping right around the crag. This weekend there was a large pile of freshly broken glass along the shoulder where everyone parks. No problem during the day but I didn't want to leave my car there over night. Also, there isn't a lot of level ground in the area and you would have to keep a pretty low profile. Definitely some national forest camping within 10 miles or so.
By Louis Mullerleile
From: Sacramento, California
Jul 19, 2014
I left my anchor at Beginner Cracks on Buck's Bar Dome, on Thursday night(7/17). I brought a bunch of interns from my work who have never climbed before out there to climb, and of course afterwards we went down swimming. After we came back and pulled all the ropes and got everything packed and hiking back, totally forgot about the anchor.
I know its probably gone forever, but if you happened to have grabbed it I can describe it in detail and would really like to see it returned as part of it is not mine.
Thanks for reading,
Aug 12, 2014
Hey Louis that happened to us a couple months ago too haha. We set up an anchor, rappelled, I did a few leads up Beginner Cracks and then we hiked out and forgot the anchors :( Lost 3 locking biners and 2 brand new slings.
By Sam Grandy
Feb 8, 2016
I found an almost new piece of gear here today (2/8). Has anyone left anything here recently?