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Cosumnes River Gorge

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Buck's Bar Dome 
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Cosumnes River Gorge 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 1,500'
Location: 38.6524, -120.7066 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 98,331
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on May 27, 2003
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Upstream from the climbing area. A lot of sick loo...

Description 

Nestled into the western Sierra near the town of Placerville, you will find this granite gem. Climbing is quite varied, from short bouldering, sport, and multipitch traditional lines.

Most of the granite in the area has been washed by water over many many years, and now is quite smooth. We're not talking Yosemite glass, so friction routes are still doable.

Boasting several hundred existing routes on many different rocks,there are many many days of climbing for people of all abilities. This is an excellent place to set your first pro, and also a great place for the development of new routes.

There are no access fees for climbing in Cosumnes River Gorge.

Descents are as varied as the climbing.


Getting There 

From Hwy 50, exit on Missouri Flats (Right). Take that a few miles until you find a T-intersection with Pleasant Valley Rd and take that to Bucks Bar. If you are unfamiliar with the area the turnout for parking is just before Buck's Bar Cir., so if you see Bucks Bar Circle road then you just passed the spot.

Once out of the car, head off the right side of the road in the middle of the guard rail. There is a wide trail that is paved for the first few hundred feet. The approach is downhill and takes about 10 minutes.


Climbing Season


60 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',36],['1 Star',11],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',5],['5.8',14],['5.9',13],['5.10',14],['5.11',2],['5.12',5],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',2],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cosumnes River Gorge:
Amazing Chimney   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     TR, 1 pitch, 45'   Buck's Bar Dome
Beginner's Cracks   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Buck's Bar Dome
The Easy Way Up   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Gutenberger Wall
Magic Beans   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, 50'   Buck's Bar Dome
Chamberlin's Chimney   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Buck's Bar Dome
Squeeze Cheeze   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     TR, 30'   Buck's Bar Dome
Gutenberger's Wall   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Gutenberger Wall
Live and Learn   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   Buck's Bar Dome
Planned Obsolescence   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 35'   Buck's Bar Dome
Test Piece   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Buck's Bar Dome
Unconquerable   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Buck's Bar Dome
Bat Roof   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Buck's Bar Dome
Mangler   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Buck's Bar Dome
Lichen Us   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Gutenberger Wall
Gardens of Babylon   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Ten-Minute Cliff
Dinkum   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Buck's Bar Dome
Fly or Die   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Buck's Bar Dome
Adhesion   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Buck's Bar Dome
Fingerprint   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Buck's Bar Dome
Ten Minute Crack   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Ten-Minute Cliff
Browse More Classics in Cosumnes River Gorge

Featured Route For Cosumnes River Gorge
Andrew shows off 10 Minute Crack like Vanna White.

Ten Minute Crack 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b  CA : Sacramento Valley/Foothills : ... : Ten-Minute Cliff
Located right in the middle of the 10 Minute Cliff is the cliff's namesake Ten Minute Crack. Apparently it was so named because of the time it took to hammer pitons into the narrow crack. Now these piton scars are the 'quality' finger holds you'll be using as you struggle you way up it. While its a short climb, its still excellent and teaches the 5.12 crack novice (me) a thing or two about crack climbing....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Cosumnes River Gorge Slideshow Add Photo
A view of Gutenberger Wall from further upstream. This shows a great view of the angle of most of the climbs on the dome.
BETA PHOTO: A view of Gutenberger Wall from further upstream. ...
Bucks Bar Dome, from across the valley on Gutenberg Wall
BETA PHOTO: Bucks Bar Dome, from across the valley on Gutenber...
not sure the route
not sure the route
Bat Roof (Great Chimney)
Bat Roof (Great Chimney)
Cosumnes River Gorge panorama from the Gutenberger.
Cosumnes River Gorge panorama from the Gutenberger...
Comments on Cosumnes River Gorge Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 2, 2005

I've climbed here quite a bit. It's cool for beginners who enjoy toproping, most anchors can be walked up to. If you sport there's only 3 routes a 10a, 10c, and a 9, they're ok but not great. a near by river makes for good swimming in the summer time.

By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Dec 7, 2012

For those that prefer pretty pictures over reading, here's how to get there: Map

Just drag the "A" icon to where you want to start from.

By McStupid
May 20, 2013

This place is a lot of fun, but I wouldn't really recommend camping right around the crag. This weekend there was a large pile of freshly broken glass along the shoulder where everyone parks. No problem during the day but I didn't want to leave my car there over night. Also, there isn't a lot of level ground in the area and you would have to keep a pretty low profile. Definitely some national forest camping within 10 miles or so.

By Louis Mullerleile
Jul 19, 2014

Hey Everyone,

I left my anchor at Beginner Cracks on Buck's Bar Dome, on Thursday night(7/17). I brought a bunch of interns from my work who have never climbed before out there to climb, and of course afterwards we went down swimming. After we came back and pulled all the ropes and got everything packed and hiking back, totally forgot about the anchor.

I know its probably gone forever, but if you happened to have grabbed it I can describe it in detail and would really like to see it returned as part of it is not mine.

Thanks for reading,

Louis

By Boriss
From: Sacramento
Aug 12, 2014

Hey Louis that happened to us a couple months ago too haha. We set up an anchor, rappelled, I did a few leads up Beginner Cracks and then we hiked out and forgot the anchors :( Lost 3 locking biners and 2 brand new slings.