Double Dip is a nice beginner outing, featuring pro placements as well as the occasionaly bolt to make you feel better. An initial climb up a flake leads to enjoyable face climbing the rolls off at the top. Belay from a bolt anchor. Walk off the left side down ramps.
What a fabulous route!! For protection, the flake will take a #3 or #3.5 camalot, preferably with a sling or draw to reduce drag. Other than that, don't bother bringing up anything but draws. There are five bolts on the route (or was that four?), plus a two bolt anchor. 4 stars out of 5 (or 3 out of 3)
As I stated elsewhere, a cam is not a must but certainly a smart move. #3 camalot as suggested in the flake works fine. It is a very enjoyable, fun route and I highly suggest it for the intermediate leader due to the runouts. Others might do better to second or top rope.
This was my sons second lead and he did it well. It is a good one for beginners to start on and it also is just one hell of a fun route regardless of the grade. On a stupid dad note, as he was setting up for me to second, I decided to solo it. Now that is not the stupid part. The stupid part is I forgot he would soon be throwing the rope and as I got near the third bolt...........wishhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh and Oh! Oh! as most of it caught me and just about threw me for a certain head banger. This type of behavior and stupidity I do not reccomend. But for myself, I'll probably do something similar soon enough. Too many in the 60's,70's,80's and all the way to the begining of the 90's. "Brain meltdown". Next!!!!!!!!!!!
By Dynomight510 From: San Diego Sep 12, 2003 rating: 5.6
Bring pro to 4" for the flake unless you want to run it out to the second bolt. The climbing 'ON' the flake is easier than 5.6. If you fall before reaching the second bolt, you will deck. If you choose to climb the flake like an offwidth(?!)it's much harder.
People are always talking about groundfall on this climb -- the only way there's any danger of that is if you only use the bolts. As you can see from the first action photo down below, the entire flake is very easily protectable with large cams (#3 or #3.5 Camalots work great), and you can reach the second bolt easily while standing on top of the flake.
By Graham Roff From: San Diego Mar 21, 2004 rating: 5.6
Was the first bolt there originally? It seems unnecessary as one more easy move puts you at the bottom of the flake where solid gear can be placed.Definitely one of the most fun slab routes for the grade.
The 1st bolt was added many years after the route was originally done (but has been there for a long time too). I my opinion it is totally unecessary. But in light of the fact that it is a very easy climb and no one is really complaining about it, perhaps it is better to leave well enough alone.
Another fun route. We had the pleasure of meeting a Swarm of Bee's as they did a drive - by, while we were packing up after the climb. They Buzzed by two climber's and kept going without any incident's.
I didn't think placing gear in the crack was very necessary, although not a bad idea if you're just starting out in the sport. A fun route well worth climbing.
This is a very fun route. I would throw something into the flake on the way up. You'll deck for sure if you don't make the next bolt. I threw in a #5 friend, but the flake will take several different sizes. I was also able to place a yellow alien to the left and up after the second bolt. The route is pretty easy but be sure you trust your feet cuz there isn't many hand holds on this climb!
A #3 Camalot and a #10 Trango flexcam protected the flake just fine. The moves off the flake are stout, but not impossible for the grade. Definitely not sport bolted at the top, but the higher you go, the easier the grade.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Apr 16, 2006 rating: 5.6
A rare bolted 5.6 line in Joshua Tree.
By 46and2 From: Las Vegas, NV Jun 11, 2006 rating: 5.6 PG13
EXCELLENT route but I would highly recommend throwing in a cam (3.5 or 4") into the wide crack on your way up as the second bolt is way the hell up there. Although typical slab, stay sharp on the slab above as the bolts are slightly spaced and a fall would not be that enjoyable. Two bolts for anchors up on ledge for belay and then walk off to the North.
If you are not used to josh friction and leading 5.7 or less you might want to have someone else lead if like me you get psyched out easy. Getting up to the bolt above the flake is straight forward and easier than 5.5 I think. I found the head game started at getting into the depression. That move seemed quite technical and felt psychologically more like a 5.7 and a little tenuous. A fall would have caused some nice scrapes for sure. I may just not have seen the move however.
After the depression, getting to the next bolt (up and left) required some time as well to see the feet, and played with my head a little. After that next bolt the feet and angle become easier. It could be that over the years this climb just gets more and more polished but the rating never goes up.
For what it's worth you can get a marginal Yellow TCU in a shallow crack before the third bolt. I would not want to fall on it, but it would be better than nothing.
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