The Falcon and The Snowman
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British PG13
| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 34.02513, -116.15617 |
| FA: | Jeff Larmee and Mike Batten, 1984 |
| Page Views: | 2,764 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Owen on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
A good intricate route on the slab between Quick Draw McGraw and Heart and Sole (it's harder and scarier than either of these climbs).
Start by a yucca. A couple of thin moves lead to the crux (bolt); a very tenuous step up on a crystal leads to sustained moves. Go left (bolt), more tricky stuff gets over another steep section trending rightwards (bolt). Up and marginally left to the last bolt, then a frantic dash (5.9 R) to the top.



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