Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Jeff Larmee and Mike Batten, 1984
Page Views: 1,513 total · 9/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


38 Opinions

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Description

A good intricate route on the slab between Quick Draw McGraw and Heart and Sole (it's harder than these).

Start by a yucca. A couple of thin moves leads to the crux (bolt); a very tenuous step up on a crystal to a relenting in the steepness. Go left (bolt), more tricky stuff gets over another steep section trending rightwards (bolt). Up and marginally left to the last bolt, then a frantic dash (or composed styling) to the top before the old nervous energy takes over and causes a snafu on the not all that easy finishing runout.

Protection

4 bolts, bolted anchor/rap

Photos

Adam Kimmerly
  5.10c R
Adam Kimmerly  
  5.10c R
Solid and sustained. A serious lead, though not as "R" as others on Echo Rock with the same designation. The cruxes are well protected, but be prepared for some runouts with bad fall potental on 5.9/5.10- terrain. Deserves more traffic at least as a worthy TR when you're finishing up with Heart and Sole. Nov 5, 2007
Tony Yeary
Arcadia, Califoria
  5.10c PG13
Tony Yeary   Arcadia, Califoria  
  5.10c PG13
Great route. A bit run out but not horrific. I thought the crux, for me, is the pull past the first bolt. After that it's text book JT friction and edges. It will keep your attention! Mar 5, 2008
alex carey
Los Angeles, CA
  5.10c PG13
alex carey   Los Angeles, CA
  5.10c PG13
Crux is definitely the opening moves with the first bolt already clipped. watched my partner struggle to find the beta, only to make the climb much easier for me since I now knew it. Feb 5, 2018
David Conlon
Los Angeles
David Conlon   Los Angeles
To be fair alex, your partner had a crappy mythos on his right foot, and a good skwama shoe on his left which made the edging and smearing significantly more difficult ;-) Feb 6, 2018
alex carey
Los Angeles, CA
  5.10c PG13
alex carey   Los Angeles, CA
  5.10c PG13
hahaha, no doubt, but you'd have struggled in 2 good shoes until you get the beta right. Thanks for going first. Feb 8, 2018