Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Herb Laeger, Rich Smith & Jai Watts, January 1978
Page Views: 12,890 total · 63/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jun 25, 2002
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Fun and varied climbing past bolts which weaves around a small roof/overlap then heads into a shallow right-facing corner/flake to the top of the flake where you'll find bolted belay anchors; single rope rappel from anchors to the ground. Three stars out of five.


Right side of the face between The Falcon and The Snowman and Eff Four.


3 bolts (3/8"), gear to 1.5", bolted anchor/rap (all 3/8").
The first bolt is tricky to get to, you can put a small cam behind the flake but it won't keep you off the floor. Beautiful slabby moves lead to a secure and fun layback. Oct 31, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
If you are not used to J-tree dime-edging and smearing I sincerely recommend warming up on another route prior to attempting this. The initial 50' is bolted, but is NOT a sport route and falls could be serious. Additionally, the moves are slick and for non-chalkers (me) were a little funky on a warm day. Jan 6, 2003
this is my favorite route ive ever done in jtree i love it so much, the line is so f'in bad ass the thin face moves are definatly the crux, but everything is there, a trick i found when traversing back across the roof is to use the under side of the roof for a hand hold made it much easier than using the small face holds in front of your face, once your done with these moves say hello to one of the cool lyeback dihedrals around!!!! oh yeah make sure to leave a long sling at your last cam at the top of the flake to keep it from getting stuck behind in side the flake. May 12, 2003
The traverse is slippier than it used to be. Many years of climbing have smoothed down the crystals and greased it up somewhat. Further, some of the finger holds have popped off. I popped one myself a couple of weeks ago. Jan 21, 2004
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
This was an excellent route, but I have one issue with the climb. The first bolt is quite high off the deck, which is fine. However, the bolt is one move (and a sketchy hard move) above an excellent stance. Why did the first ascentionist place the bolt above this excellent stance? Was this to keep the "riff-raff" off? It seems like artificial boldness to me. Although the smear I used to get to the bolt felt pretty serious to me, and I remember the move with distinct claritry, more so than if I were climbing past an already-clipped bolt. Maybe that was the point. Feb 1, 2004
Great climb for cold days. Feb 2, 2004
This route needs a good scrubbing! The traverse is much thinner than I recall and needs a wire brush overhaul! While it is an excellent route, I would only climb it again at about 50 degrees F with no sun. It is slippery at the crux (the traverse??), probably due to the millions of shoes that have traversed it! Still the best route on Echo in my humble opinion. Relatively well protected, but has some real thin sections at the bottem. Mar 1, 2004
Lassitude 33
Randy   Lassitude 33
With all due respect (or maybe not) to TraiseB: Using a wire brush on this (or any) route will only make the holds smoother and more polished (think about what hundreds of more ascents by people with sloppy footwork would do). Keep the wire brush for those home improvement projects.

Mar 1, 2004
Golden, CO
Petro   Golden, CO
Consensus Question for the bold...

There is an alternate finish to this climb using 3 or 4 more bolts up the face, in my hasty study of the guidebook, I thought H+S went straight up this line of bolts, and the alternate went into the flake oops...

In the book, this alternate is rated 10b, but it uses the first three bolts of H+S, traversing left, and then right climbing around some ultra-thin hard moves.

Has anybody skipped the third bolt and all that traversing and gone straight up? Any stabs at the difficulty of the moves, felt stout? The pucker factor was high, and I don't think a fall would be pretty.

Any info would be great. Thanks.

Tom Apr 20, 2004
Bo Johnston  
I love this route, I only wish that the finishing flake was sportier, because it looks so cool from the ground. The sport of the route is definitely in the first half. Feb 10, 2005
Paul Rezucha
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
I really found this route to be fun and quite reasonable. I thought the lower section up the roof to be quite hard and thin to clip the first bolt and the traverse quite straight forward once you got your right foot situated properly so the left could step out. The move to the crack was actually more intimidating for me. Up the flake was just pure fun and a nice way to end the route! Jun 6, 2006
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
Great climb, the best one on Echo Rock! Sweet dicey face moves below and above the roof reward the climber with a comfortable, easy crack. This one's a must for your tick list. I second the opinion for using a long sling on the last piece (learned the hard way). Mar 10, 2007
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
The moves to the first bolt are no joke. The gear in the flake will not keep you off the deck.

The slab is the main course, while the crack is the dessert. I am glad I talked myself into leading this one. One of the best of the trip... Mar 24, 2007
Tony Yeary
Arcadia, Califoria
Tony Yeary   Arcadia, Califoria  
Rick Graham and I did this route on 3-2-08. First time climbing with Rick in 28 years and last time I climbed Heart and Sole was 15 years ago. Nice to revisit old friends and climbs. Great fun. Nice lead Rick. Just like the old days(almost)! The climb was as I remembered. Always interesting, never really hard, and most of all, fun. Mar 5, 2008
Oakland, CA
Sirius   Oakland, CA
A memorable climb that I can still relive in vivid detail, three years after I lead it. Some climbs are like that, this is one of them. Mar 6, 2008
Will S
Joshua Tree
Will S   Joshua Tree
Did this a week or two ago, and there are a couple of welded cams in there, one right off the deck and another in the bottom of the crack. One right off the ground is going to require some kind of hand tools to get out...chisel, hacksaw blade, something...at least there's a good stance to work on it. Dec 8, 2008
Laguna Beach, CA
oldbull   Laguna Beach, CA
I've done this a few times now and it's a great ride. Down low is a little spicy as you are high enough above a .4 camalot going for the first bolt that a fall should not really be in the equation. Not sure about the traverse getting more slippery!? Not really all that bad....and the move getting into the dihedral is cool too! Great and memorable climb. Apr 6, 2009
Chris M
Hailey, ID
Chris M   Hailey, ID
Do this on a cool day or out of the sun- learned this the hard way.
Made the face climbing feel a whole lot harder than it should have. Cool route, although I don't think its the best in Echo. Oct 26, 2009
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Led this one today and it's been a long time since I've done it, over 15 years I think. No really hard moves but yeah the lip traverse left felt slippery, although it was over in a couple of moves. I thought the first traverse right was the crux, but I didn't use the underside of the roof, might try that next time.

Wonderful varied climbing, and one of the essential Echo Rock routes. Dec 27, 2009
great slab, its all there just look for the feet, bring smaller cams for the flake and your good to go! (did this climb yesterday) Jan 25, 2010
Cory Harelson
Boise, ID
  5.10a PG13
Cory Harelson   Boise, ID
  5.10a PG13
Very fun climb! I wish the difficulty would have been sustained for a little longer, the dihedral is very easy (but still fun), and this is a classic! The moves are a little thin, but it's all there, and well protected after the first bolt (which is a little sketchy to get to). May 23, 2010
Joe Hunt
Costa Mesa, CA
  5.10- PG13
Joe Hunt   Costa Mesa, CA
  5.10- PG13
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
Ying and Yang!! Great, scary slab down low and Fantastic Layback crack up high!What more could you ask for! The First bolt is a little high but after that your golden!! Ohhhhhh It is so fun! Dec 11, 2012
  5.10a PG13
  5.10a PG13
This climb reminded me of the Van Halen Greatest Hits album "The Best of Both Worlds", a little DLR, and little Hagar, maybe some Gary Cherone there too. A right hand palming move proved key to reaching the first bolt. Jan 1, 2013
Phil Esra  
Best 10a-or-under in the park. Dec 12, 2013
anthony509 Excelsior
las vegas nv
  5.10a PG13
anthony509 Excelsior   las vegas nv
  5.10a PG13
agree with comments of jay knower above Dec 1, 2014
peter p
peter p  
Did this today, what a GREAT climb.

I did not think getting to the first bolt was scary, though you obviously don't want to fall.

The moves from clipping the 1st bolt to the roof were quite sketchy; a few of the dime edges are getting polished.

Also tried the straight up variation on TR -- getting to the 3rd bolt on that route was like impossible. Maybe I was supposed to traverse way left or right, no idea. Just seemed really hard. Oct 30, 2016
Seth Hogan
Frisco, Co
Seth Hogan   Frisco, Co
This route would have been very cool if it were a couple pitches up. But, eh. Dec 4, 2016
Apr 20, 2004

So... I've been thinking about it a lot lately, maybe too much, but I see at least one person tried my variation on TR. AND... If a variation deserves a name... this one would be "Shart and Hole".

I mean... just seems appropriate given my feelings at the time and all, and I had feelings for what there weren't words for... at the time...

I wouldn't have blasted up the darn thing if it wasn't for a mis-conception about scary slab routes in J-tree. Kind-of proud that I did though. Dec 7, 2016
Hobo Greg
My Van
Hobo Greg   My Van
Freakin awesome. Wasn't too bad getting to first bolt, and fun as hell the whole way. Felt easier than crux moves of Quick Draw McGraw to the left. 4/5 stars. Feb 10, 2018
Thomas Claiborne
North County of SD or Idyll…
Thomas Claiborne   North County of SD or Idyll…
I didn't check it out on my lead, but is the incipient crack big enough under the roof to place gear? It could be a wild no bolt send. Feb 19, 2018