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Routes in Echo Rock - West Face

April Fools T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Battle of the Bulge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cherrie Pie T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cherry Bomb T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cole-Evans T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Dip T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eff Four T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Falcon and The Snowman, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Fall from Grace T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Forbidden Paradise T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gone in 60 Seconds T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Heart and Sole T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Highway 62 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
In Like Flynn TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Legolas T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Love and Rockets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Minute Man T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Penny Lane T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Quick Draw McGraw T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Raindogs TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Respect The Pouch S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stichter Quits T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stick to What T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Such a Sandwich TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Team Slug (aka Cliff Pounder) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ten Conversations at Once T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Too Bold to Bolt T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Tooth Beaver T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trough, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Try Again T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Unzipper S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Yo Yo TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Mike Jaffe and Larry Thaxton, April 1974
Page Views: 3,131 total, 17/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jun 25, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

A good heads-up slab route that will hold your attention and is best avoided on a warm day.

The run-out to the second bolt is not especially difficult but a fall will probably result in a crash into the boulders below. The second run-out after the last bolt is easier with less to worry about. Two stars out of five.

Protection

4 bolts (all 3/8"), gear to 2.5" for an anchor
Joe Hunt
Costa Mesa, CA
  5.10a R
Joe Hunt   Costa Mesa, CA
  5.10a R
First minute is audio only:

youtube.com/watch?v=njlrgvw… Sep 7, 2011
Dylan Colon
Eugene, OR
Dylan Colon   Eugene, OR
When I was at Echo Rock this week there was significant confusion about where this route goes. At the base of the wall where Legolas, Stick to What, and Forbidden Paradise are there is kind of a mess of bolts. Specifically, there seems to be a clear Forbidden Paradise bolt line, but three "first bolts" to the left of that at about the same height. The middle one has a significant rust streak underneath it. I climbed up to a better-looking bolt at the same level and right of the rusty one, and then continued up and left about 10 feet to another bolt roughly above the rusty one, then angled back right into the water streak that forms the upper part of Stick to What. This didn't seem super dangerous so I assume from the above I must have done the wrong line for Stick to What. Where does each route go? Jan 8, 2011
Gregg Olson
ca
  5.9
Gregg Olson   ca
  5.9
Maybe not the best route for a timid 5.9 gym rat, but having done many R rated climbs I dont think this one quite makes that grade. I think with a good belay this is fairly safe route and a great lesson in " keep your cool " face climbing. I would hate to give this one an R rating and have someone think " that wasnt so bad "
and jump on a real R rated route that could do some damage. Oct 4, 2008
It's been a while since I've done this route, but it used to be a favorite of mine -- one I'd make sure to do on most trips.

My recollection is the crux is pretty much right at the first bolt. If you can make that move, the moves to the second bolt just keep getting easier and more secure. It is a bit of a head-game, but it never struck me as dangerous, per se. Yes, falling just below the second bolt would be very bad, but it isn't very likely, especially if you made it to the first bolt in the first place...

That said, I've had friends clip the first bolt, make the crux move, look at the next moves, and give up, so it isn't for everyone... May 2, 2008
Almost every time I climb at echo I chase unsuspecting leaders away from this route. They arrive at Echo, fresh from climbing 5.8s, maybe some 5.9s in the gym or elsewhere and are at Echo because the routes are "sport" climbs (they're bolted, right? So they must be sport climbs...) and they don't require any trad gear (they don't have racks yet). They first check out Double Dip and Stichter Quits, but find lines three parties long waiting for them, so they head for the next easiest route in the guide that's nearby - Stick to What. That's where I find them - standing at the base of the route a little confused as to which bolts go with which route. They usually assume the bolt on Legolas is part of the route as they can't comprehend why anyone would climb something with the bolts so far apart that you'd end up a blob of brokenness in the talus if you fell before reaching the second bolt on the route.

Anyway, my round-about point is that I hope to see an "R" in the next issue of the guidebook, and possibly a note of warning or something to help keep unsuspecting newer leaders off of this route. It's a stout, heady line that is best left to those who are solid at the grade and used to JTree slab. Nov 5, 2007
Alex A  
If you blow this one you will hit deck, Aug 6, 2007
Adam Stackhouse

  5.9 R
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.9 R
As an old school boy to JTree, leading this 18 years ago was a proper introduction as to what was expected of a slab climber at the Tree. Yea, it was a bit runout, but that was the sacrifice for the 5.9 grade. If you want it, its there, but this aint no sport climb! Jun 5, 2006
Paul Rezucha
Alameda
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
Great face/slab climbing but definitely a long run out to the second bolt that you don't want to blow. Hard to rate this accurately but 5.9+ to 10a seems right. Thin and delicate for sure. The climbing eases up but is still great all the way to the top! Jun 5, 2006
Bo Johnston  
 
The runout after the first bolt played with my head and I bailed. I have a little boy waiting for his dad to come home after a J-Tree visit and this route was not worth playing with that! I lead "Forbidden Paradise" to the right instead and TRed this route from their shared anchor. As far as quality goes, this route has NOTHING on "Forbidden Paradise". Can you tell I'm bitter about bailing?? Feb 6, 2005
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.9-
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.9-
I have led this a few times in the past and again today and cannot understand how anyone sees it going harder than 5.9-.........in no way is it anywhere in the 5.10's........might be a style more suited to me? Couldn't honestly tell you on that one........but it is deffinatly fun and as noted, be careful not to fall between the first and second bolt.............might end up way beyond "OUCH!"......... Jan 5, 2005
Drew
  5.10a
Drew  
  5.10a
2nd route I led at Jtree. Scared the shitte out of me. I just kept looking at the chunderous boulders below. Damn happy every time I got to the next bolt! Sketch unless you are used to J-tree slab. Apr 23, 2004
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
This route seems to be getting slicker over time. Dec 13, 2003
David Evans
  5.10a
David Evans  
  5.10a
5.10a and runout! Fun and a bit scary. Dec 1, 2003
I've led this sucker three or four times over the years. It's very hard "nine" getting to the first bolt. Don't blow it. Oct 6, 2003
Can be climbed directly above the first bolt too. May 19, 2003
Jamie Silliman
Wilton, CA
Jamie Silliman   Wilton, CA
I second the poster about where the route goes. Do *not* clip the 2nd bolt located to the left of the first bolt a little up and left, and do not stray too far right from the 1st bolt. Route follows line about three feet to right of bolt. It scared me quite a bit, but it's all there. Definitely an R with the atrocious landing. Apr 14, 2003