Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Alan Nelson, December 1985
Page Views: 846 total · 4/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Jul 31, 2002
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

In the old days, routes were established from the ground up (how archaic!). The bolt wars were raging in the mid-80's, and if you didn't belong to the chic clique or live up to their unwritten standards, you'd likely see your efforts fall victim to a chopper's chisel. Given the proliferation of bolts and routes on Echo Rock, this route was established in a manner that precluded removal: an on-sight free-solo. The name was a tongue-in-cheek commentary for the times. In an ironic twist, one of the resident "big-names" came along shortly afterwards and placed the bolt.

Climb the middle of the face left of Double Dip past a single bolt. Watch out for crunchy rock and bad holds. Clipping the bolt is optional - it is still a "no-falls" type of route. Not recommended for the aspiring 5.8 leader, but it will cure campground boredom.

Protection

One bolt (added after the initial ascent)

Photos

- No Photos -
The bolt is long gone, so the route has been returned to it's original X-rated status, and you can see the choped bolt about a third of the way up, about 10 feet below a big loose flake. Nov 12, 2017