Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Todd Gordon & Cyndie Bransford, 1992
Page Views: 749 total · 5/month
Shared By: Woody Stark on Nov 23, 2005
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Climb a large flake that leans against the main face. From the top of the flake, two old bolts can be seen to your left. Traverse left a bit and clip the second bolt. The rest of the bolts are relatively new and of good quality. I felt the crux was getting on top of the "tooth" to the right of the first new bolt. Once that is surmounted, continue pretty much straight up. There is a bit of a runout getting to the anchors after the last bolt; however, it's fairly easy. This is a route I'll do again.

Location

This route is located about fifty feet to the right of Eff Four.

Protection

7 bolts, bolted anchor/rap

Photos

Nic Risser
San Francisco, CA
 
Nic Risser   San Francisco, CA
 
Climbed on 3/3/13. The upper face (after 3rd or 4th bolt) climbs on and around some big and loose flakes. The bolts are on solid rock but the flakes are hard to avoid. Try to belay from sheltered position... these big flakes can break off easily. Mar 4, 2013
Dude Abides
SoCal
Dude Abides   SoCal
Great route to push your slab skills, and guaranteed no one will be hogging this one. Belayer wear helmet. Rapping on a 70 meter rope is important. We were able to rap on a 60m to a huge block “fang-tooth” definitely tying stopper knots on the ends, then descend by squeezing between the block and the wall, class 5. You can also sling and rap off the huge block and whip off the rope after several attempts... Your mileage may vary. Oct 16, 2017
Bob Ruzich
Schaumburg
Bob Ruzich   Schaumburg
Went up Eff Four and crossed over to Tooth Beaver anchors to set-up a top rope with a 70m. It DID NOT come close to reaching the ground. Be careful here! Feb 25, 2018