Mountain Project: Climbing Central Coast

Submitted By: Mike Morley on Feb 13, 2006
Administrators: Mike Morley, andy patterson
Latitude: 34.4873 Longitude: -119.3030
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Description

Highway 33 branches off from the 101 freeway in Ventura and winds itself north, skirting the quaint town of Ojai. If you are driving north from Ventura, the crags are in the following sequence:

Getting There

From the beachside town of Ventura, head north towards Ojai on 33. Refer to crag descriptions for additional directions.

Here's a map to get your bearings.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Hwy 33/Ojai:

Tree Root 5.5 Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)

The Crack 5.6 Trad, 90 feet Foothill Crag ("The Foot")

Rational Expectations 5.7 Sport, 60 feet The Fortress : Central Gully

Ending Crack 5.7 PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)

Free to Choose 5.8+ Sport, 2 pitches, 180 feet The Fortress : Right Side Gully

Cruiser 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet Wheeler Gorge

Permanent Income Hypothesis 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 180 feet The Fortress : Right Side Gully

Migrating Coconuts (aka Zyzzxx) 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch Potrero John

Spontaneous Order 5.10a PG13 Sport, 4 pitches, 350 feet The Fortress : Central Gully

Capitalism & Freedom 5.10a Sport, 2 pitches, 155 feet The Fortress : Right Side Gully

Should I Go (aka El Potrero) 5.10b/c Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Potrero John

Color Blind (aka Rubber Man) 5.10c Sport Potrero John

Featured Route For Hwy 33/Ojai

Romain & Alberto on the stunning summit of "Seven Steps" at the Fortress.

Seven Steps to Heaven 5.10a CA : Central Coast : ... : Central Gully

Short but AWESOME route up the summit block above Rational Expectations & Magali's Arete. The crux is just below the second bolt (and is VERY well protected). The crux involves smearing your feet on the featureless face to the left of the arete. Following the crux, make a big move on the steepest part of the arete (5.9) and continue up the arete to the top.A fantastic summit awaits you!!...[more] Browse More Classics in CA

Comments on Hwy 33/Ojai

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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Aug 17, 2008

Cool geological information about the Sespe Gorge area

By t-rev
Feb 7, 2009

Has anyone here climbed Chouinard-Bossier on Matilija wall? Or does anyone know about the access situation? There's not much info out there for this route.

By C Runyan
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Sep 14, 2009

t-rev: Full topos, photos, and other details about Matilija, Cathedral Peak, and a number of other gems missing from the Falcon Guide can be found in the out-of-print 1994 guide "Climbing! Santa Barbara, Ventura, San Luis Obispo" by Steve Tucker and Kevin Steele.

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