Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Derrydale Cliff

Elephant in the Room T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Exilis Dihedral T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grand Old Pachyderm S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mammoth Poaching S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mowgli Walk S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Description

Long, sandstone cliff-band that starts immediately above Hwy-33 and runs a few hundred yards north west. The cliff is 60-100 feet tall and consists of areas of bullet-proof sandstone (and other areas of choss).

This beautiful cliff-band looms large over Hwy-33 and absolutely screams to be climbed. Clearly, there has been activity going back at least 20 years.

If you have any information about what routes were established, about who did these first ascents and when, please post this information here.

There is clear evidence of recent and past climbing attempts; although, nothing is currently known about actual routes. PLEASE POST INFORMATION HERE.

Two more hard routes have been added to the left of "Exilis." Both FAs were by Matt Greco. The routes are 5.11 (left-hand route) and 5.12. They are both located in Area A

Getting There

Roadside Crag is located on the right-hand side of the road, when heading north and approximately 1 mile beyond the obvious turnout for the Fortress. The crag can also be found by driving to the Potrero Creek trailhead and then continuing up the Highway for approximately 1/2 mile. There is a small turnout located immediately below the cliff.

5 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Derrydale Cliff Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Derrydale Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
More Classic Climbs in Derrydale Cliff »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
steve edwards
SLC, UT
steve edwards   SLC, UT
Those don't sound like Stuart's routes, since he said hard and could climb 5.12 in his sleep or, as one person put it, "you could lock him in a closet for six months and he'd still onsight 12c". But I don't know how invested he was either. He didn't sound very psyched. Did Matt say if these were good? Might be worth doing sometime.

Also, Matt, have you found any info about the steep bolted line opposite side and just before the Black Wall? Probably 10+/11-. Very chossy but super fun. My guess is that it's a Mike Gould route but I don't remember why. Maybe it has my hangers on it. Feb 22, 2012
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
Matt Greco equipped and led both of the routes that Stuart Ruckman explored on the left side side of the wall. Matt reports that the one line went at 5.11 while the other is 5.12. Jul 31, 2011
steve edwards
SLC, UT
steve edwards   SLC, UT
Stuart Ruckman bolted a line, or two, but never climbed them. These are a way up from the road. They are rumored to be hard, and Stuart could climb a little bit.

Next to the road there is a bolt or two. I could never find out any info on this and never felt it was worth too much attention. Pretty, yes, but also pretty thin on suspect rock. But if I had lived a little closer it would have been worth a bit more effort... Jul 30, 2008

More About Derrydale Cliff

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New

All Photos Within Derrydale Cliff (32)

Most Popular · Newest