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Routes in Derrydale Cliff

Elephant in the Room T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Exilis Dihedral T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grand Old Pachyderm S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mammoth Poaching S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mowgli Walk S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Romain Wacziarg & Matthew Fienup (November 2008)
Page Views: 1,110 total · 10/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Dec 6, 2008
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A varied and interesting route.

Steep and strenuous climbing past the first three bolts (crux) yields to low-angle slabbing. Near the top of the route, there is a committing, dynamic mantle onto a ledge and then an easy scramble to the anchors.

Location

30 feet to the right of Exilis Dihedral

Protection

6 bolts (all 1/2" Rawls), 2-bolt anchor

Photos

Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
This route has cleaned up and gotten easier. Small flakes have broken off leaving behind larger, positive edges. The crux climbing past bolts 2 and 3 involves fun mantling off of a few very nice edges followed by big reaches. Sep 17, 2011
Climbed this route in late summer 2009. Lots of fun movement, but I must have blown 3 or 4 holds off the wall. Still very chossy, needs lots of traffic/cleaning to get a proper grade. I thought this route was deserving of a .10 rating, until the holds all started shattering beneath my feet. Maybe .10+ now?? Jan 8, 2010
Rob Chaney  
 
Cimbed this route on 5/13/2009 and blew a right hand hold off just past the crux after the second bolt. Not sure how this will effect the grade.

This is a great route and the mantel at the top is fun!

You can easily top rope this route by climbing Exilis Dihedral and traversing to the top ledge. May 14, 2009

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