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Routes in Derrydale Cliff

Elephant in the Room T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Exilis Dihedral T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grand Old Pachyderm S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mammoth Poaching S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mowgli Walk S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 130 ft
FA: Matthew Fienup & Romain Wacziarg (February 2009)
Page Views: 941 total, 9/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Feb 4, 2009
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Varied climbing through three tiers of rock on the tallest part of the wall.

The route starts with steep face climbing on positive holds (5.8+) on rock that is strangely reminiscent of San Ysidro. Upon reaching a ledge atop the first tier, the route follows blocks up and slightly right, in the direction of an obvious overhang. The route then follows positive holds up to the roof. A devilish mantel leads to easy slab-climbing.

The route ends on a wide, grassy ledge in what feels like a rocky amphitheater--the position is excellent.

The route can be rappelled with 2 ropes.

Location

The routes starts in a gully next to the road, on the right hand side of the crag. Click here for location.

Protection

7 bolts (all 1/2" Rawls), yellow TCU, 1-inch cam. Bolted top anchor with rappel rings.

Photos

Rob Chaney
  5.9+ PG13
Rob Chaney  
  5.9+ PG13
fun route worth doing a bit run out in between the 3rd and 4th and the 4 and 5th bolts a fall before clipping the 4th bolt would result in a huge very ugly fall. how ever it is very easy climbing, I was very relived after clipping the 4th bolt. the mantel move is a very big committing move. it is possible to climb around it by going left. if you go for it look for a right foot to push you over the top. I placed a OP .75 link cam at the start of the route (bommer pice).

Is there any gear that im missing in between the 3rd & 4th, 5th & 6th bolts? May 6, 2009
caughtinside
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
Only two stars girls? clearly another instant classic. Feb 7, 2009
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
The next crag that we open should have route names that are ALL surfing cliches...I'm thinking pointbreak, longboard, doubleoverhead... Feb 6, 2009
Romain Wacziarg
  5.9+
Romain Wacziarg  
  5.9+
Another terrible looking route with a shitty name! Feb 5, 2009