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Routes in Derrydale Cliff

Elephant in the Room T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Exilis Dihedral T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grand Old Pachyderm S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mammoth Poaching S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mowgli Walk S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 75 ft
FA: Matthew Fienup & Romain Wacziarg (August 2008)
Page Views: 1,790 total, 16/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Aug 15, 2008
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Exilis Dihedral climbs the most striking feature on the cliff--a large, left-facing dihedral in the center of the formation.

Delicate slab climbing past three bolts (crux) leads to the dihedral. Laybacking and stemming deposits you at the top of the dihedral on a large ledge. A few easy fifth-class moves take you over the final bulge to a rap anchor on a spacious ledge.

Location

The dihedral is located almost in the dead-center of the wall. Scramble up the loose hillside directly below the dihedral to access the start.

Protection

Four bolts (all 1/2" sleeve bolts), gear from a #0 TCU up to 2-1/2"
Joe Garibay
Ventura, Ca
 
Joe Garibay   Ventura, Ca
 
I really enjoyed this as well. However, if I remember correctly, there are more than 4 bolts. Don't take my word on it though. I felt disappointed with how many bolts I clipped through the dihedral. Expecting it to be all trad up there, I did place some gear, but don't remember it being all that important. Again, don't take my word for beta, I could be remember things differently. I need to give it another go because it is a fun climb. Jun 29, 2017
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
It had been a couple of years since I last got on this route, when I climbed it on Saturday. I was really surprised how great this route is! The slab section at the bottom is super clean with great edging. The dihedral is easier than the slab but very aesthetic--we just don't get many features like this on the Central Coast.

I have bumped this route up to one of a handful of favorites on the Central Coast. Jun 25, 2017
excellent slab section at the base! The dihedral section is easy, but gear is not very good. I found one good slot at the very base of the dihedral for a stopper/small TCU, and after that the crack is flared for the next 20+ feet. Large offset nuts, or maybe a link cam would help, but if you're comfortable running it out (like I did), DO IT! Jan 8, 2010
Rob Chaney
  5.9
Rob Chaney  
  5.9
Climbed this on 4/23/2009 what a great route nice moves,crimpy slab, blancy, lye back, stemming and even a little mantelish. Fun!
I used a BD #10 stopper at the bottom of the crack and A OP #2 link cam in the middle of the crack. Apr 24, 2009
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
Mammuthus exilis Aug 17, 2008