Elevation: 3,600 ft
GPS: 34.581, -119.261 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 13,674 total · 84/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Feb 13, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

A quarter mile further up the road from Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) lies this 80' cliff sporting a handful of quality sport routes. Bring traditional gear if planning on climbing the solitary trad line, Beginnings (5.5). Also, some supplementary gear (nuts, TCUs) is recommended if leading Menage a Trois (5.10b). A single rope is sufficient to get off all routes.

Historical Background

Information care of the late Reese Martin: "In 1995 Potero John Wall was retro-bolted with fat 3/8" bolts and additional anchors were added. This turned what had been a collection of runout 1/4" spinner horror-shows, into a friendly and fun place for the moderate climber. All five bolted routes are worthwhile. When you climb the insecure, tricky seam in the middle of the face, Menage a Trois, 5.10b, remember the route was first climbed in EBs and protected only by wired stoppers in 1976 by "Hot" Henry Barber and Yvon Chouinard. The bolts appeared recently. After your day of climbing be sure to check out the numerous swimming holes nearby. There is a great barefoot boulder traverse over the big pool 200 yards upstream. Fall off and you're wet."

Getting There

1/4 mile up the road from Sespe's main "Black Wall". Park in a dirt turnout and walk down the hillside, across Sespe Creek. Approach time: 5 minutes.

Topo

From Tradgirl.com (c)Reese Martin 1997

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Potrero John

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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