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 ADVANCED
Pseudo Hawk's Nest
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
ABM TR 
Bagatelle T,TR 
Beginner's Delight T,TR 
Beginners Demise TR 
Bloody Mary T 
Chicken Delight/Chicken Tonight T,TR 
Couch of Pain T,TR 
Cracking Up T,TR 
Death & Disfiguration T 
Death and Transfiguration T,TR 
Degrade Your Sister T,TR 
Epiphany T 
Fakir, The T,TR 
Full Moon Over Baraboo T,TR 
Hero's Fright Variation TR 
Heroes Fright T,TR 
Immaculate Conception TR 
October First T,TR 
Phlogiston T,TR 
Pretzel, The T,TR 
Prime Rib T,TR 
Sofa-Isticated-Lady T,TR 
Wild Horses TR 

ABM 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 513
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Jun 14, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Early crux, ABM. Fun route. Egghead shamelessly ...

Description 

The start is the crux and is harder for shorter folks. Studiously avoid the holds on the left corner. One may find it necessary to use holds near the left corner, and which point a decision must be made: Can I use this hold and still look myself in the mirror?

After the initial wall is passed the climb transforms into an enjoyable tour of moderate, exposed quartzite.

Location 

ABM is immediately to the left to Beginners Demise. You will recognize a blank wall with a hard-looking start.

Protection 

Toprope or solo.


Comments on ABM Add Comment
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By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Nov 30, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This route is absolutely height/ape index dependent. My 6'3" frame, along with my +6" ape index found this to be easier than 11a. At least it felt easier than routes like Black Rib(11a) and even Flake Route(10d).
By Paul Campbell
From: Waukesha, WI
Nov 23, 2009

The crux on ABM is right off the ground, and is harder for short people because they can't reach the good crimp for the first move.

However, I felt the route was pretty sustained at 5.11a and had a few hardish cruxes above. It felt way more technical then a climb such as Beginner's Demise to the right.