Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 199 total · 2/month
Shared By: Paul Jones on Aug 18, 2009
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Description

Climb up crack to the right of Cracking Up. Rest at ledge(30 feet), then straight up through small overhang. Holds seem to disappear near the finish. Hopefully you will have an "Epiphany" as to how to finish the route. If not, you can bail on Cracking Up. Trying to get good gear right at the crux may be a waste of valuable time...

Location

Crack to the right of the obvious inside corner route, Cracking Up.

Protection

Wires and small pro

Photos

A B
Boulder, CO
 
A B   Boulder, CO
 
BOOOOOOO!!!! Absolutely HATED this one. Looks good, climbs bad. Aug 29, 2009
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
 
Ryan Strong   Golden, CO
 
climbed this route not knowing what it was...half way up traversed left and climbed other crack(dihedral) to top... Sep 1, 2010
Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burton Lindquist   Madison, WI  
RP's and smallest Ballnut protect the crux sequence quite nicely.
The crux for me is resisting temptation to stem off the left side of the "Crack'n Up" corner with left foot at the crux.... I succumbed again this weekend past to that little devil whispering in my left ear..... Sep 13, 2010
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
  5.9
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
  5.9
Not bad for a route with rules! I probably shouldn't have waited so many years to try this. Sep 14, 2010
Isaac Therneau
Rochester, MN
  5.9
Isaac Therneau   Rochester, MN
  5.9
I've only done this thing once, and it was an exciting on-site to say the least. I agree that it looks a lot easier from the ground. Jul 14, 2011
Bryan Keller
Madison, WI
Bryan Keller   Madison, WI
I lead a variation that goes up and right after the ledge. This avoids the hard-to-protect crux and felt like a 5.7. I had a hard time placing protection in the middle of the route where the crack thins out. I almost bailed but then found a pocket that ate a master cam number 2. Oct 23, 2011
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
Once, as a young climber and before I knew the area (ca. 1998-99), I attempted this route thinking it was Charybdis - a (perhaps exceptionally) rude awakening ensued. I lowered off a single nut, and quickly retreated with my tail between my legs - to-date I've yet to return. May 27, 2015