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Routes in Pseudo Hawk's Nest

ABM TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bagatelle T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Beginner's Delight T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Beginners Demise TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bloody Mary T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chicken Delight T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Chicken Tonight T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Couch of Pain T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cracking Up T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Death & Disfiguration T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Death and Transfiguration T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Degrade Your Sister T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Epiphany T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fakir, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Full Moon Over Baraboo T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Heroes Fright T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Immaculate Conception TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
October First T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Phlogiston T,TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
Pretzel, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Prime Rib T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pseudo Skyline T,TR Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Sofa-Isticated-Lady T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tharsis T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Waxing Moon TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wild Horses TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: FTR: Pete Cleveland 1977 FL: Peter Bonamici 2015
Page Views: 2,641 total, 20/month
Shared By: David A Groth on Apr 11, 2007
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Climb thin holds straight up the blank face between "Bagatelle" and "Beginner's Demise" to the "Bagatelle" rest at the large sidepull. From here, punch it straight up to a mini roof. Surmount this and navigate the crack above, avoiding the holds to the right on "Bagatelle." Despite the eliminated holds at the end, this is an excellent route.

Location

Pseudo Hawks nest

Protection

An assortment of small wires.

Photos

madisonchoss
  5.13 R
madisonchoss  
  5.13 R
Hey Steve - thanks. Hopefully this helps / you find it interesting. Just right of the ledge you stand on at the rest I placed a #3 HB Offset. From the rest I could reach high and place a #2 DMM peanut in the pod Dave refers to above. This is also used to "protect" (I use that loosely) "Beginner's Demise." Two moves higher, a #5 HB Offset fits nicely in the mini roof. Once you surmount the roof, there are considerably more options. I dropped in a nut and just did the last couple moves up the crack to the ledge.

That's just what fit best from my rack, I'm sure comparable things would work for others.

A couple spots lower might take #0 RPs but to me that seemed like more trouble than it was worth. I also didn't hammer in any iron, though that was mostly to save C$ from the fist fight that may have ensued.

I thought this was a great route that climbs more like many of the "directs" than an eliminate, at least until the last three moves when two holds on "Bagatelle" are quite tempting. Other than that, though, it's more or less just climbing straight up the left side of the wall.

The boulder problem at the start is difficult, with the first move being the single hardest move on this or "Bagatelle" for me. I would say that that move is harder than any move on many of "hard" boulders around here. Even if the ground was considerably higher before years of erosion and that move was eliminated, though, the route is clearly the product of a proud effort by Cleveland and Groth on his near-lead. Those guys showed me the way (literally - I talked to Dave about the line on Saturday). Oct 20, 2015
jon jugenheimer
Madison, WI
jon jugenheimer   Madison, WI  
Perhaps one of the finest days on lead at the lake in the last few years? Sep 12, 2017
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
"On a side note make sure to buy your belayer a beer cause they were in the moment with you up there!" ~Steve Sangdahl

Classy! Oct 20, 2015
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
Peter, I,m always interested in the gear for these bold ass DL leads. Not because I,m going to come out there and try it ( beyond me anyway) but the gear used gives one a window into the twisted mind of the leader of these types of things. Sounds like nothing bigger than a #5 hb, which ain't very big. It's awesome that you led Bagatelle and this back to back! After just one of those we(dlfa) would have started the party right then and there. I remember Bagatelle pretty well but not much about Phlogiston. Did it on a tr barely with Pete C voiding the ascent for use of "illegal" holds. It's great that Pete Cleveland routes still inspire climbers to pull down hard and that Dave Groth is still at the lake to encourage and inspire other climbers that they should try and climb as hard as possible.
On a side note make sure to buy your belayer a beer cause they were in the moment with you up there! Peace and F-nes Steve S Oct 20, 2015
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
Wow, This is awesome news. Way to send a very tricky DL test piece. What the heck is the gear like? Would have like to have seen this lead. Any pics? Proud lead Dude. Peace and f-nes Steve S. Oct 20, 2015
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Sweet! Strong work! Oct 19, 2015
Remo
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
Yes Peter! A super strong, V-hard boulderer putting his skills to the sharp-end, I love it! Oct 19, 2015
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Awesome! Oct 19, 2015
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Awe inspiring... as good and great as it gets at DLSTP... Oct 19, 2015
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
Nice. Oct 19, 2015
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
Peter Bonamici lead this yesterday. Right after "warming up" with a lead of Bagatelle. Amazing to see. I think as belayer I was way more nervous than he was. Congrats. Oct 19, 2015
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Was it down graded because of the introduction of sticky-er shoe rubber and better shoe design? Aug 20, 2010
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
According to this stanford.edu/~clint/yos/har… the FA was in 1977, they have the grade off a bit though :) Aug 20, 2010
FA in 1977? Aug 19, 2010
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
Dave G, I am pretty sure our young pull-down artist Jason H. recently led CHEAP THRILLS....as well as Peyote Blues.
What about N.W. Face of Ceasarian Tower as a rad lead???
peace and fuk-nes May 6, 2007
David A Groth
Lacrosse
 
David A Groth   Lacrosse
 
The fight started over the controversial use pins on DL leads. I drove 2 blades in the horizontal at the rest. Same gear as Bagatelle.
As far as his name I think I will let sleeping dogs lay.

I think the real RAD lead yet to be done is cheap thrills! May 5, 2007
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
YO Dave G, That is a good story.Just what were you guys doing to arouse the ire of our young ethics policepunter from madison.
Using chalk,sticky rubber,camming devices,head pointing,or heaven forbid...drugs and alchol??? OR did one of you clowns steal his girl friend? OR were you clowns just climbing better then the poor punter?
And pray tell what was the lads name? Apr 29, 2007
David A Groth
Lacrosse
 
David A Groth   Lacrosse
 
Steve
I never did get the route clean! I fell about 3 feet from the top, I got in a good stopper & peeled. It is a long and good story.

During the assent a very verbal and almost violent fight broke out. An unnamed Madison climber started ranting about ethics. Rich Bechler had to remove him from the base of the route. Meanwhile I was off the rest stance on really shitty gear trying to concentrate with all this shit going on at the base of the route. As soon as I got in some good gear I just lost it and fell.
I never when back up on lead. I realized the pinch block I put the wires and copper head in is pretty hollow and did not want to risk it.

That's my story! The short version of course.

I thought the photo was worth putting up! There are way to many TR photos on MP.
Dave Groth Apr 26, 2007
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
Yo Dave,Thats a killer photo of you leading Phlogiston! Awesome send!
When was that?Is this the hardest dl trad line that has been led?
Peace and Fuk-nes Steve S. Apr 13, 2007