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Routes in Pseudo Hawk's Nest

ABM TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bagatelle T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Beginner's Delight T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Beginners Demise TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bloody Mary T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chicken Delight T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Chicken Tonight T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Couch of Pain T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cracking Up T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Death & Disfiguration T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Death and Transfiguration T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Degrade Your Sister T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Epiphany T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fakir, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Full Moon Over Baraboo T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Heroes Fright T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Immaculate Conception TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
October First T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Phlogiston T,TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
Pretzel, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Prime Rib T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pseudo Skyline T,TR Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Sofa-Isticated-Lady T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tharsis T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Waxing Moon TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wild Horses TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,149 total · 9/month
Shared By: jon jugenheimer on Jul 6, 2007
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

start high up in pseudo Hawks Nest below a left leaning crack going through a roof. pull the roof, using jugs & bomber hand jams, then climb the easier wide crack above and behind the crux roof.

Protection

cams, wires, and don't forget the hexes, oh yah, the hexes...

Photos

Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
 
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
 
This thing is friggin great, what are you waiting for?! Jun 25, 2017
Tom Mulholland
#1 Cheese Producing State!
Tom Mulholland   #1 Cheese Producing State!
I'll try to get on it this weekend (weather permitting) and get some pics so the debate can continue! Should be VERY photogenic (I think there are good views from the top). Nov 10, 2011
Tradiban
  5.8
Tradiban  
  5.8
Not toprope-able? That seems strange. Tom, post that up with pics so we can scrutinize it!

I also did the same finish Burt describes. I think the route you are talking about is left around the corner. Nov 10, 2011
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Tom.... Give it a name... Post it. Post some pics.... Post as a project if you ain't sent. Content Content! Content needed....
Just kidding... Way to go having the vision to attempt amd nearly pull off otherwise... Did you try this from the ledge mid height up cliff (above Prime Rib etc..)? Just wondering.. was thinking a climb of this difficulty and so little gear... you would want your belayer positioned where he or she can be within view. Nov 9, 2011
Tom Mulholland
#1 Cheese Producing State!
Tom Mulholland   #1 Cheese Producing State!
I led the face, but not cleanly. A small brassy shortens the runout, but even without that piece it's probably pg13. I stayed on the face all the way up, probably 12b or 12c, finishing on the highest point of the tower, a big block, which is not top-rope-able. Nov 9, 2011
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
I have..... as a finish to both Bloody Mary and Prime Rib. It goes at about 5.8 I think but I was forced right near the top into the corner for gear placements and the finish. I think it goes up and left on the arete but have never tried and I am pretty sure there would be a beefy run-out. Good gear up to that point though. This route is listed as "Tharsis" 5.11c #195 page 138 3rd Edition. there is no route in the guide describing climbing straight up the middle of this face. Nov 8, 2011
Tom Mulholland
#1 Cheese Producing State!
Tom Mulholland   #1 Cheese Producing State!
Has anybody ever climbed the tower on top of Bloody Mary? There is a tower with a large crack full of chock stones in the corner, and that corner is where a lead of Bloody Mary usually finishes. I'm talking about climbing the face of this tower (I believe it's a South face), staying a few feet left of that corner. When pulling the Bloody Mary roof, the climber traverses a bit to the right to reach that part of the tower. Alternatively, a climber finishing Prime Rib will be staring right at that face and crack.

There are some routes in Sven's book, but they seem to involve the outside arete or something. The descriptions are not clear. Nov 7, 2011
Tradiban
  5.8
Tradiban  
  5.8
This has an easier variation. Take the left crack system to a stance and a rusty pin on the face to the right. Traverse right on good holds and into a small alcove to join Bloody Mary proper. Called "The Fakir" 5.7 in Sven's book. Oct 3, 2011