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Routes in Pseudo Hawk's Nest

ABM TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bagatelle T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Beginner's Delight T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Beginners Demise TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bloody Mary T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chicken Delight T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Chicken Tonight T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Couch of Pain T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cracking Up T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Death & Disfiguration T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Death and Transfiguration T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Degrade Your Sister T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Epiphany T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fakir, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Full Moon Over Baraboo T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Heroes Fright T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Immaculate Conception TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
October First T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Phlogiston T,TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
Pretzel, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Prime Rib T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pseudo Skyline T,TR Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Sofa-Isticated-Lady T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tharsis T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Waxing Moon TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wild Horses TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 916 total, 8/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on Aug 14, 2008
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Description

This route has three distinct sections, and a number of variations.

The lower section is a strenuous layback. Take this up to the shallow alcove (similar to the alcove on "Chicago"). From here, launch up using face holds until you can sink your hands in horizontal crack. This may look dubious on sight, but the holds are there (like "Brinton's Direct") and there is even some gear. For the final 6-8 feet, move left. The top-out on the ledge is always dirty.

You could continue to the top of the bluff (5.7 or 5.8 I think), but most people stop here and walk off to the side toward the Leaning Tower gully.

Variations: for the lowest part, you can TR on or just to the left of the rib's arete - it wouldn't make a great lead. At the top, instead of moving left you can struggle straight up through the last alcove, making this a 5.10 - this has good gear.

Location

On the back wall of Pseudo Hawk's Nest, between "Death and Disfiguration" and "Bloody Mary." Start to the left of the detached pillar below D&D, in the right-facing dihedral.

Protection

Gear to 1 or 1.5 inches, plus some bigger pieces for the belay at the top.

Photos

calvino
Marblemount, WA
 
calvino   Marblemount, WA
 
I was thankful for a #5 Brass Offset nut on the first 30 feet of climbing. Gear is sparse, but available when you need it. Jul 24, 2014
Tradiban
  5.9+ R
Tradiban  
  5.9+ R
I climbed up the rib using the side pulls on the right as well as the holds on the left side with a good rest on the ledge to the left of the alcove. Good gear to start but all I got was manky wires at the alcove. Then a healthy run-out to the horizontal for good pro. Wasps almost ate me alive on this one.

Climbing wasn't as good as I hoped. Sep 27, 2010
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.9+ R
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.9+ R
I would agree with Dmitriy. The gear is decent through the layback lower section... a #6 BD stopper (by the way, mine is stuck in the route... if you retrieve it, I'd like it back) and after that at a good stance you can get a yellow C3 in the crack off to the right of the route. From there it's pretty run out until a nice horizontal ledge unless you chuck a brass offset in one of the shallow cracks or trust a pretty dismal green C3. At the ledge a #1 C4 fits perfect and a .75 C4 fits nicely in a crack to the right of the upper crux (5.9+). Ledge is huge and very dirty but a good top out. Aug 8, 2010
Dmitriy Litvak
Pacifica, CA
  5.9+ PG13
Dmitriy Litvak   Pacifica, CA
  5.9+ PG13
Nice lead with a little gearless run above thin gear towards the top. Don't skip any gear ops. Should be attempted by a confident 9+ leader only. Gave it pg13 based on the difficulty of finding good gear in 1 spot. Is this right? Nov 26, 2009