Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,289 total · 9/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on Aug 14, 2008
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


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Description

This route has three distinct sections, and a number of variations.

The lower section is a strenuous layback. Take this up to the shallow alcove (similar to the alcove on "Chicago"). From here, launch up using face holds until you can sink your hands in horizontal crack. This may look dubious on sight, but the holds are there (like "Brinton's Direct") and there is even some gear. For the final 6-8 feet, move left. The top-out on the ledge is always dirty.

You could continue to the top of the bluff (5.7 or 5.8 I think), but most people stop here and walk off to the side toward the Leaning Tower gully.

Variations: for the lowest part, you can TR on or just to the left of the rib's arete - it wouldn't make a great lead. At the top, instead of moving left you can struggle straight up through the last alcove, making this a 5.10 - this has good gear.

Location

On the back wall of Pseudo Hawk's Nest, between "Death and Disfiguration" and "Bloody Mary." Start to the left of the detached pillar below D&D, in the right-facing dihedral.

Protection

Gear to 1 or 1.5 inches, plus some bigger pieces for the belay at the top.

Photos