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Epiphany

5.9, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.2 from 36 votes
FA: unknown
Wisconsin > Baraboo Range > Devil's Lake > E Bluff 04 - E… > 15: Pseudo Hawk's Nest

Description

Climb up crack to the right of Cracking Up. Rest at ledge(30 feet), then straight up through small overhang. Holds seem to disappear near the finish. Hopefully you will have an "Epiphany" as to how to finish the route. If not, you can bail on Cracking Up. Trying to get good gear right at the crux may be a waste of valuable time...

Location

Crack to the right of the obvious inside corner route, Cracking Up.

Protection

Wires and small pro

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Epiphany aid solo, 8/8/11. Hard and scary, crack ends 40 or so feet up requires hook moves.
[Hide Photo] Epiphany aid solo, 8/8/11. Hard and scary, crack ends 40 or so feet up requires hook moves.
The right side of Pseudo Hawk's Nest.
[Hide Photo] The right side of Pseudo Hawk's Nest.
The right side of Pseudo Hawk's Nest.
[Hide Photo] The right side of Pseudo Hawk's Nest.
The lower right side of Pseudo Hawk's nest.
[Hide Photo] The lower right side of Pseudo Hawk's nest.
Epiphany
[Hide Photo] Epiphany
The beginning of Epiphany. Cracking Up is the inside corner on the left. Photo by Jason McKeefry.
[Hide Photo] The beginning of Epiphany. Cracking Up is the inside corner on the left. Photo by Jason McKeefry.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
 
[Hide Comment] climbed this route not knowing what it was...half way up traversed left and climbed other crack(dihedral) to top... Sep 1, 2010
Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
[Hide Comment] RP's and smallest Ballnut protect the crux sequence quite nicely.
The crux for me is resisting temptation to stem off the left side of the "Crack'n Up" corner with left foot at the crux.... I succumbed again this weekend past to that little devil whispering in my left ear..... Sep 13, 2010
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Not bad for a route with rules! I probably shouldn't have waited so many years to try this. Sep 14, 2010
Isaac Therneau
Rochester, MN
  5.9
[Hide Comment] I've only done this thing once, and it was an exciting on-site to say the least. I agree that it looks a lot easier from the ground. Jul 14, 2011
Bryan Keller
Tappan, NY
[Hide Comment] I lead a variation that goes up and right after the ledge. This avoids the hard-to-protect crux and felt like a 5.7. I had a hard time placing protection in the middle of the route where the crack thins out. I almost bailed but then found a pocket that ate a master cam number 2. Oct 23, 2011
James Schroeder
Fort Collins, CO
[Hide Comment] Once, as a young climber and before I knew the area (ca. 1998-99), I attempted this route thinking it was Charybdis - a (perhaps exceptionally) rude awakening ensued. I lowered off a single nut, and quickly retreated with my tail between my legs - to-date I've yet to return. May 27, 2015