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Routes in Pseudo Hawk's Nest

ABM TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bagatelle T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Beginner's Delight T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Beginners Demise TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bloody Mary T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chicken Delight T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Chicken Tonight T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Couch of Pain T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cracking Up T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Death & Disfiguration T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Death and Transfiguration T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Degrade Your Sister T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Epiphany T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fakir, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Full Moon Over Baraboo T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Heroes Fright T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Immaculate Conception TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
October First T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Phlogiston T,TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
Pretzel, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Prime Rib T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pseudo Skyline T,TR Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Sofa-Isticated-Lady T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tharsis T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Waxing Moon TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wild Horses TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,282 total, 7/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Apr 25, 2003
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

A face climb in the finest Devil's Lake tradition, this route climbs a wide face by way of thin crimps and quirky moves.

Locate the wall between Hero's Freight on the left and Chicken Tonight on the right. Start up a lower angle slab until you can get to a stance before the steeper part of the wall. Crank past the steeps and then work up the exposed wall above. All holds on nearby routes are off.

Protection

TR

Photos

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Yup. I agree. I'd climbed it with the beta that Full Moon was the face off to the left of the big beefy crack (which is a 5.8?). And, I agree that it is harder this way than Upper D--definitely not as sustained as Upper D, but formidable nonetheless! Nov 5, 2003
"Full Moon over Baraboo" goes more directly over the roof and perhaps just a tich left, of courese not using holds on "Hero's Fright 5.7". This way may seem hard but at first but as you boost yourself up and lock off a nice hold comes into view.

I do agree that the face above the roof is not a "gimmie".In fact I think this route done this way is harder than "Upper D" which is sort of a bench mark 5.9 for Devils Lake.

I'm very partial to "Full Moon" as it is the only route in Swartling's Book that has a reference to my hometown.Great Name.....overlooked great route at Devils Lake. Nov 5, 2003